Weird and Wonderful Facts About Flea

Flea Bites

To finish, we present a few of the lesser-known facts about fleas that we've accumulated during 17 years in the business of flea control:

Flea Species
  • Fleas vary in size quite considerably. In the UK, the Cat Flea is one of the smallest at about 2.5mm long. On the other end of the scale, a heavily pregnant female Human Flea clocks in at an earth-shaking 4mm or so.
  • Elsewhere in the world, the largest known flea is the Hystrichopsylla schefferi — a flea found in the nest of a mountain beaver in Washington State, USA. It can grow up to 8mm long and has been known to bite a man's arm off at the shoulder blade (Ed's note: OK, there's a certain amount of poetic licence there — but they do grow to 8mm).
  • Britain's largest flea is, coincidentally, a parasite of Britain's smallest mammal. Hystrichopsylla talpae (usually found on moles) grow to a length of 6.5mm and can be found on the pygmy shrew. Pity the poor pygmy shrew; in relative terms, it would be the same as a man being attacked by a blood-sucking rat.
  • In nearly all species, the female is larger than the male.
  • The flea has a considerable number of relatives. There are more than 2000 different species of flea around the world.
  • 63 species of flea are found in the UK. About 10 of those could be found in homes.
  • In our own homes, the theoretical number of flea eggs left around your house after three days of an infestation of 500 fleas is 20,000.
  • The flea most commonly found on cats and dogs in this country is the Ctenocephalides felis (the cat flea to you or I).
  • The largest ever recorded infestation of human fleas in the UK was found at a pig farm in 1986. It reportedly turned an area the size of a tennis court brown. We estimate that to cover an area of that size, this particular flea family must have numbered around 133,378,450!
  • It is now extremely rare to find a human flea on a human (or, for that matter, a cat or a dog) in the UK — due to increased hygiene standards.
Fleas and Health
  • Fleas were responsible for one of the greatest changes in the UK’s social history. The Black Rat Flea (Xenopsylla cheopis) was responsible for transmitting what was then called Black Death in the mid-14th century.
  • These deaths decimated the workforce of labourers in what was still a predominantly agricultural Britain. Survivors found themselves in much greater demand and they could command very much higher wages. The balance of power consequently shifted dramatically from landowner to farm worker.
  • Later outbreaks of Black Death — now known as Bubonic Plague — were transmitted by the same species of flea. These outbreaks caused a further 35,000 deaths in 1625 and 20,000 in 1665 — in London alone.
  • The flea population itself has been decimated by the outbreak of disease. Most notably when myxomatosis was introduced to kill around 100 million rabbits in the UK. Collateral damage included an estimated seven billion rabbit fleas.
Fleas and Love
  • The great metaphysical poet, John Donne (1572-1631) wrote an ode titled "On A Flea On His Mistress' Bosom." Here we publish a short extract:

    Madam, that flea which crept between your brest
    I envyde that there he should make his rest;
    The little creature's fortune was soe good
    That angells' feed not on so precious food
    How it did sucke, how eagerly sucke you!
    Madam, shall fleas before me tickle you?
  • Men belonging to the Lundaya Murats tribe based in Borneo can be fined one pig if caught picking the fleas from the hair of a married woman.
  • The male flea sports an organ approximately 2.5 times the length of its own body — the largest, relative to its size, of any insect.
  • Also a useful part of the male's sexual equipment are two antennae bearing sink-plunger-like suckers. It was believed that these were used to subdue the female. Top thinkers amongst the flea intelligencia now believe that the male needs these suckers just to hang on during the act. If you doubt the necessity for this, bear in mind that when a flea jumps, it does so with an acceleration roughly equal to that of the Apollo space rocket.
  • The female flea lays her eggs at a prodigious rate. An average of about 30-40 a day. A single female flea will probably lay around 100 eggs during her adult lifespan. That's a theoretical 50 new breeding pairs — each producing another 100 eggs. You can see how a minor problem can rapidly develop into a bad infestation.
Fleas and Music
  • The instrument of choice amongst flea musicians worldwide is the ukelele. It was so named in 1878 after a Portugese sailor arrived in Hawaii bearing a braguinho - a guitar-like instrument. As he played, the locals thought his fingers as nimble as dancing fleas, or in the Hawaiian language, uke (dancing) lele (flea).
Fleas and Games
  • One of Britain’s oldest games can trace its origins to the flea. In approximately 15 different European languages, the word ‘tiddlywinks’ translates as ‘the game of the flea.’
Fleas and Blackmail
  • Fleas have been used as a notably unsuccessful method of blackmail. In 1996, a transexual named Lydia Banot was jailed for eight years at the Old Bailey after blackmailing Harrods. The sex-change extortionist had threatened to release a plague of fleas in the designer clothing department unless a demand for £5 million was met. There’s optimism for you.

Review: The Most Effective Flea Control Products

Spot-on Flea Treatments
Spot-on flea products are applied to the pet. A few drops are placed on the scruff of the neck, under the fur. Most spot-on products contain adulticides designed to eliminate adult fleas from the pet within 24 hours of application.

Benefits of spot-on flea control
  • Rapid relief from adult fleas on the pet
  • Easy to apply
  • Convenient monthly treatment
Oral Flea Treatments
Orally administered products can be used to eliminate both adult fleas on the pet, and flea eggs laid around the house.

Insect Growth Regulators
When a pet is treated with an oral insect growth regulator, it circulates in the animal's bloodstream. Then, if a flea bites the pet, it ingests the insect growth regulator and passes it on to its eggs, rendering them unable to hatch.

With these products, you can have confidence that even if you do see adult fleas on your pet, they will be unable to infest your house with flea eggs. This removes the need to spray insecticides around your house, and makes them ideally suited for preventative flea control.

In fact, oral insect growth regulators can also be used to eliminate an existing household infestation. In this case, once you start treating the pet, any fleas already in the house will hatch, leap aboard the pet, and die without laying any more viable eggs.

These products are available in liquid form for cats and as tablets for dogs, from veterinary surgeons only. They are given in-food once a month.

Benefits of oral Insect Growth Regulators
  • Effective prevention / removal of fleas in the home.
  • Protection for the home without the need to use household insecticides, vacuuming etc.
  • Easy to give, in food.
  • For dogs, there is a combined insect growth regulator / worming treatment available.
  • Convenient monthly dosing.
Adulticides
Capstar is an oral adulticide specially developed to offer the fastest removal of adult fleas from a pet. It starts working within as little as 15 minutes, and removes fleas for 24 hours thereafter.

This means that Capstar is ideal for using 'if and when' adult fleas are seen on the pet, in combination with long term use of an insect growth regulator.

Because it kills fleas so fast, Capstar can also be especially useful for those pets that are allergic to fleas.

Benefits of oral adulticide
  • Fastest relief from adult fleas on the pet.
  • Especially useful for the removal of fleas from pets that are allergic to them.
Injectable Flea Control
An injectable flea control product is available for cats. It contains an insect growth regulator which prevents fleas from being able to lay viable eggs around your home for a full six months.

When a cat is treated with an injectable insect growth regulator, it circulates in the animal's bloodstream. Then, if a flea bites the cat (which it will), it ingests the insect growth regulator and passes it on to its eggs, rendering them unable to hatch.

With this product, you can have confidence that even if you do see adult fleas on your cat, they will be unable to infest your house with flea eggs. This removes the need to spray insecticides around your house, and makes the product ideally suited for preventative flea control.

In fact, injectable insect growth regulators can also be used to eliminate an existing household infestation. In this case, once you start treating the pet, any fleas already in the house will hatch, leap aboard the pet, and die without laying any more viable eggs.

Benefits of injectable Insect Growth Regulator

  • Long term household flea protection from one application.
  • Protection for the home without the need to use household insecticides, vacuuming etc.
  • No need to remember monthly treatments.
  • Ideal for people who have difficulty giving or applying other forms of flea medication.
Household Flea Sprays
To kill fleas, we obviously need to know where they are. That’s the difficulty with household sprays. Flea eggs will be dropped around the house wherever the cat or dog goes. Problem is, you won’t always know where that is.

There is only one place we know with absolute certainty that fleas MUST spend part of their lives, and that's on the cat or dog.

That’s why it is always better to treat the pet, not the house.



How to check your pet for fleas

A trained eye isn't usually needed to spot a heavy flea infestation. You'll probably notice your pet scratching, biting its coat, or showing other signs of discomfort. If you then run a fine metal comb through your pet's coat, you might see them crawling around on the comb afterwards.

Often though, you'll notice symptoms of a flea infestation without being able to find the culprit. That's because pets, especially cats, will groom fleas out of their coats long before you've had a chance to try and find out what's making them itch.

If you're in any doubt, carry out a simple flea check. First sit your cat or dog on a large piece of white paper. Then rub its back vigorously for a minute or so. As you rub, any flea faeces will fall onto the paper. You may need to hold the animal's tail between its legs in order to prevent it moving whilst you do this. Next pick up the piece of paper, remove any hair, and transfer the 'rubbings' onto some damp cotton wool. Leave to stand for a minute.

Flea faeces are made up of dried blood from the host they have bitten. When dry, they are dark brown flecks that can be easily confused with dirt or dead skin. But once transferred onto the moist cotton wool, they'll dissolve and turn a lighter shade of red. So, if you can now see red spots on the cotton wool, you can be certain that your pet has been in recent contact with fleas. Treatment is required.

Pest Control: About Flea Infestations

There are over 2000 species of flea in the world. Thankfully, only the cat flea and the dog flea (Ctenocephalides felis, Ctenocephalides canis) are important to dogs and cats. Despite the name, cat fleas infest dogs just as much as they infest cats.

The problem is that fleas breed in stupendous numbers. Each female can lay as many as 200 eggs, which immediately fall off the animal, all around your home.

This is why scientists the world over agree that Integrated Flea Control, where you use one type of insecticide to kill fleas on the pet and another to kill their eggs, is the most effective way to eliminate fleas.

The degree to which you need to control fleas will vary from person to person, and from pet to pet.

You might think that a pet kept entirely indoors would be at no risk of catching fleas. But don't forget that it only takes a visit from one untreated animal to trigger an infestation in your home, so even housebound pets may require flea control.

Pets that routinely go outdoors will likely come into contact with fleas from time to time, and require regular treatment. Finally, some pets are allergic to relatively small numbers of fleas, and may need particularly stringent flea control.

Discuss the most appropriate level of flea control with your veterinary surgeon. Before you do, though, it is important that you have a basic understanding about fleas.

Flea Eggs
Whoever first coined the phrase 'breeding like rabbits' clearly didn't know much about fleas! Where a wild female rabbit may give birth to 30-40 young in a year, a female flea can lay 30-40 eggs in just one day.

Once on your pet, adult fleas take a blood meal (bite) and mate. Within 24 to 48 hours, the female starts laying her eggs. These eggs fall off the animal, wherever it goes in your house.

A typical female flea may lay 200 eggs over a period of five days. They'll hatch in a further 4-12 days, depending on the temperature and humidity.

So, two important facts here:

1. For every flea you can see on your cat or dog, there may be another 200 eggs around the house.

2. This is why experts the world over agree that the most effective flea control involves using 2 types of insecticide: one to kill adult fleas on the pet, and the other to prevent fleas reproducing.

Flea Larvae
Flea eggs hatch into worm-like larvae which move away from light and downwards. This means that they are usually found deep in the carpet pile. They tend to accumulate in areas where the pet rests, but have been observed to crawl as far as 20 feet while in this stage of the life cycle.

The lessons for effective flea control are:

1. Whilst household sprays can certainly help, it can be difficult to be sure that you've treated all the hard-to-get areas that flea larvae congregate.

2. Flea prevention is better than cure. In other words, far better to treat your pet before it catches fleas, than end up chasing possibly hundreds or thousands of flea larvae around the house.

Flea Pupae
After 7-18 days, flea larvae pupate. Not the latest dance fad, but the process by which they spin a protective cocoon around themselves and develop into adults.

Inside the cocoon, fleas are almost impervious to insecticides. In fact, about the only thing that will get them during this stage of their life cycle is a blowtorch (which is perhaps a bit extreme for most people!).

It takes between 5-14 days for fleas to develop inside the cocoon, after which they are triggered to hatch in response to vibration (being stepped on), or the carbon dioxide exhaled by a passing host. But in the absence of a trigger, they can survive inside the cocoon for up to nine months.

So, what does this mean for successful flea control?

1. There are no chemical sprays on the market today that will penetrate the pupal cocoon. So, if you have pupal fleas in the house, you will need to start your flea control programme and accept that it may be weeks before they hatch and can be completely eliminated from the house.

2. Once again, prevention is the best approach to flea control. If you treat your pet before it comes into contact with fleas, you won't end up with flea pupae around your home.

Adult Fleas
A flea can hatch from its cocoon, jump on a passing pet, and begin feeding in as little as 7 seconds.

Unfortunately, scientists believe there is no such thing as an effective flea repellent. It seems that fleas are not repelled by garlic, citronella or brewers yeast.

Adult fleas are permanent ectoparasites. In other words, once they have landed on a pet, they'll stay there until they're removed by grooming or die. That's logical. After all, if you're already sitting in the best restaurant in town, why move?

Adult fleas usually live for a matter of days on a cat or dog, unless swallowed by the pet, or killed by an insecticide. They account for only 5% of a typical flea infestation at any one time (the rest existing in the egg, larval and pupal life stages).

Once again, some important flea control lessons here:

1. Remember, the objective is to kill fleas, not repel them!

2. Whilst it's adult fleas that make most people squirm, they are in fact the smallest part of the problem. Before they die, adult female fleas will lay hundreds of eggs around the home. Effective flea control means using a combination of 2 different types of insecticide: one that kills the fleas on your pet, and the other to prevent fleas laying eggs around your house.

reports from here

safest flea control for pets

Ask Dr. Watts - Dr. Michael Watts, Vet Care, clevengerscorner.com


Published: April 26, 2009

Q: What is the best flea control product to use on my pets?

A: The answer to this question depends on several lifestyle and risk factors. For example, the best product for a dog that likes to swim may be different than the best product for a house cat. The answer may also depend on other parasites you are concerned about. For example, some flea products also protect against ticks, heartworm, mites, or intestinal parasites.

Your family veterinarian is the best person to formulate the ideal flea control program for your pet. Veterinary-quality flea control offers the best possible safety for your pet and efficacy against fleas. There are many brands and types of veterinary-quality flea control. Here is a summary of the most popular monthly spot-on products:

-Advantage – quickly kills adult fleas with some activity against flea larva

-Advantage-Multi – same as Advantage with added medication to prevent heartworm and some intestinal parasites

-Frontline – kills adult fleas, ticks, and lice

-Frontline Plus – same as Frontline with an added flea “birth control” that interferes with the fleas’ reproductive ability

-K9 Advantix – same as Advantage with added medication to kill and repel ticks and mosquitoes; extremely toxic to cats

-Promeris – dog product kills fleas, ticks, and some mites; cat product not labeled for ticks

-Revolution – similar to Advantage-Multi with added benefit of killing some ticks and mites; my favorite product for most cats

There are also several oral medications your veterinarian may recommend to help prevent or control flea infestations. They include:

-Capstar – a daily tablet that quickly kills fleas after they bite

-Comfortis – similar to Capstar, but administered monthly

-Program – a flea “birth control” given as a monthly pill in dogs or a six month injection in cats; prevents fleas from reproducing, but does not kill them

-Sentinel – Program pill combined with heartworm and intestinal worm prevention

Q: Why should I purchase my pets medication from my veterinarian?

A: As pet owners spend increasingly larger amounts caring for their companions, many corporations are seeing profit potential in pet medications. There are several good reasons pet owners should continuing purchasing from their local veterinarian.

First, and most importantly, the proceeds from a sale at your local veterinarian go directly to improving the quality of care for your pet. Dollars spent in the office pay for salaries for the caring staff you know by name, updates in medical equipment used to cure sick pets and continuing education to keep your veterinary healthcare team current. When you purchase from a corporation, your money leaves the local economy and only leads to more shareholder dividends.

Secondly, you can have confidence in the quality and storage conditions of the medications you purchase from your veterinarian. The FDA, EPA, and many state pharmacy boards report complaints about counterfeit medications, ineffective products, and improperly labeled drugs coming from mail-order companies. Many manufacturers are even invalidating guarantees on medications that are not purchased through a veterinarian. You can trust that your veterinarian goes to great lengths to ensure the safety and effectiveness of every medication she supplies.

Finally, purchasing medications through your family veterinarian helps to keep other medical costs down. In human medicine and in veterinary referral hospitals, doctors do not sell medications directly to patients. As a result, all the costs of running a medical facility are charged to patients through high service fees. An examination may cost $200. Surgery easily runs into thousands or tens of thousands of dollars.

In contrast, your family veterinarian’s service fees are substantially subsidized by medication sales. If a significant percentage of pet owners choose to purchase medications through other sources, family veterinarians will be forced to significantly raise service fees to pay for the operation of their offices. By saving a few dollars with mail-order medicine, owners may ultimately find it significantly more expensive the next time their pets become ill or injured.

Classification and Life Cycle of Flea

Scientific classification: Order Siphonaptera. Dog fleas are classified as Ctenocephalides canis, cat fleas as Ctenocephalides felis felis, and human fleas as Pulex irritans. The rat flea of the tropics is classified as Xenopsylla cheopis; the rat flea of Europe as Ceratophyllus fasciatus. The sticktight flea is classified as Echidnophaga gallinacea.

Flea is the general name for parasitical, wingless insects. The adults of flea feed on the blood of their host they are seen as surface parasites on the skin of human beings, other mammals, and birds. They are found in every situation and place in the world. They lay eggs at the edges of carpets, between floorboards, in the folds of curtains, in refuse piles, and in other places that provide safety and adequate nutrition for the larvae. These eggs become larva in five to seven days and they are armed with biting mouthparts. They nourish for two to three weeks on crude refuse; the larvae spin cocoons and enter a pupa stage which turns to an adult in about one to two weeks.

Adult fleas are about 1 to 8 mm in length; they have wide, rather flat, polished bodies, which are light red-brown to very dark brown, short antennae, and piercing and sucking mouthparts. They have minute or no eyes at all. They have long and powerful legs which enable them to leap moderately high into the air.

Now, there are numerous flea species and they infest household pets and domestic animals. The dog flea and the cat flea are two of the most common species, both of which are parasites; sometimes they are on human beings, poultry, and livestock in the absence of their natural host. The human flea, the species commonly found on people, is distributed throughout the world. The dog flea, cat flea, and human flea are all intermediate hosts of a common cat and dog parasite, the cucumber tapeworm (Dipylidium caninum). Tapeworm eggs are deposited in faecal matter, and some of these eggs may clutch to the fur of the primary host. Flea larvae swallow the tapeworm eggs.

The worm larva remains within the flea during all its life stages, but becomes infective only in the adult flea. An animal or human being becomes infected when it swallows an infected flea, as, for example, when an animal licks its fur. The adult tapeworm then begins to develop inside the host animal. Human cases are rare and accidental. The rat fleas, in the tropics and in Europe, are important carriers of bubonic plague, as is the sticktight flea, which is also noted for its habit of clinging tenaciously to its host.

Dog eczema is usually connected with the presence of fleas. To control fleas, you have to target the adult and the larva, in summary you have to destroy the adults and making breeding places unsuitable for larval life. Adult fleas are destroyed by judicious application of insecticides or petroleum jelly. These agents must be properly used to avoid harm to the infected animal or person.

Flea Control For Cats: Applying Advantage

How to apply - Cats

Fast Relief for Your Cat

Applying Advantage flea control to your feline friend is fast and easy. There are two convenient package sizes which offer flexibility in dosing:

For cats and kittens eight weeks or older:
  • Kittens/Cats 9 lbs. and under
  • Cats over 9 lbs.

Once you have the correct pre-measured dose from your veterinarian, follow the instructions below to provide your purr-fect companion with fast relief. (Advantage for cats should not be used on any other type of animal. Always consult your veterinarian prior to application.)

To correctly treat your kitten or cat:

  1. Remove one applicator tube from the package.
  2. Hold applicator tube in an upright position. Pull cap off tube.
  3. Turn the cap around and place other end of cap back on tube.
  4. Twist cap to break seal, then remove cap from tube.
  5. Part the hair on the neck at the base of the skull until the skin is visible. Place the tip of the tube on the skin and squeeze the tube twice to apply the solution directly on the skin. Do not get this product in your pet's eyes or mouth. The product is bitter tasting and salivation may occur for a short time if the cat licks the product immediately after treatment. Treatment at the base of the skull will minimize the opportunity for the cat to lick the product.
  6. Discard empty tube by securely wrapping in several layers of newspaper and discarding in trash.

Advantage Flea Control For Dogs: How to apply

How to apply - for Dogs

Fast Relief for Your Dog

Applying Advantage flea control to your canine companion is fast and easy. Advantage is available in four different dosages, which your veterinarian will determine based on your pet's weight. (Advantage flea control for dogs should not be used on any other type of animal. Always consult your veterinarian prior to application.)

For dogs and puppies 7 weeks and older:
  • Puppies/Dogs 10 lbs. and under
  • Dogs 11-20 lbs.
  • Dogs 21-55 lbs.
  • Dogs over 55 lbs.

If your dog weighs 20 lbs. or less, follow these steps:

  1. Remove one applicator tube from the package.
  2. Hold applicator tube in an upright position. Pull off the cap.
  3. Turn the cap around and place other end of cap back on tube.
  4. Twist cap to break seal, then remove cap from tube.
  5. The dog should be standing for easy application. Part the hair between the dog's shoulder blades on his/her back until the skin is visible. Place the tip of the tube on the skin and squeeze the tube twice to expel the entire contents directly on the skin. Do not get this product in your pet's eyes or mouth.
  6. Discard empty tube by securely wrapping in several layers of newspaper and discarding in trash.

For dogs 21 lbs. and over:

Follow directions above, except in step 5, apply the entire contents of the tube to three or four spots on the top of the back from the shoulder to the base of the tail.

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Advantage Flea Control For Cats and Dogs

About Advantage

Fleas: The unwanted guests in your home, and on your pet.

Everyone loves having friends and family visit, but some house guests can easily wear out their welcome. If your pesky visitors are fleas, these tiny pests can infest both dogs, cats. As you can see, for the health of your pet and sanctity of your home, it is important to get rid of fleas as quickly as possible and prevent their return. and invade your home all year long. Flea bites can cause discomfort for your pet, lead to skin infections, lead to allergic skin reactions causing irritation and can even transmit other disease-causing organisms, including tapeworms

That's why Bayer Animal Health created Advantage, a fast-working, month-long flea control for your pet.

Advantage:

  • stops biting fleas in three to five minutes1
  • starts to kill adult fleas within an hour after application
  • within 12 hours, 98-100 percent of fleas are dead

Since our launch 10 years ago, millions of pet owners have used gentle, effective Advantage to combat flea infestation. Ask your veterinarian for Advantage flea control by name.

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Advantage for Dogs

Four dosage sizes:
  • Puppies/Dogs 10 lbs. and under
  • Dogs 11-20 lbs.
  • Dogs 21-55 lbs.
  • Dogs over 55 lbs.
  • Available in 4 and 6 packs
Advantage for Cats Two dosage sizes:
  • Kittens/Cats 9 lbs. and under
  • Cats over 9 lbs.
  • Available in 4 and 6 packs

Natural Flea Control

There are 2,000 known species of fleas worldwide. But the cat flea, which bites cats, dogs and humans, is the most infamous indoor troublemaker. For every flea found on your animal, there are approximately 30 more in your home.

Most flea control products target only 5 percent of the flea population, the adults. Because fleas become stronger and more immune to chemicals with each generation, toxic chemicals must be repeatedly applied. And, although a product may claim to be natural, some natural ingredients may cause allergic reactions or have toxic effects in animals.

tips to prevent fleas from entering your home:

  • Spray microscopic nematodes in moist, shady spots outside ? even in flower and vegetable gardens. The worms eat flea larvae and can reduce populations by 90 percent within 24 hours.

  • Set eucalyptus leaves inside and out because fleas can't stand the smell. Buy bunches at a craft store, cut them up and place leaves and stems in open glass jars. Set one or two in each room of the house. Also, hang pod-filled socks from branches around the yard.

General Flea Control

Scientific classification: Order Siphonaptera. Dog fleas are classified as Ctenocephalides canis, cat fleas as Ctenocephalides felis felis, and human fleas as Pulex irritans. The rat flea of the tropics is classified as Xenopsylla cheopis; the rat flea of Europe as Ceratophyllus fasciatus. The sticktight flea is classified as Echidnophaga gallinacea.

Flea is the general name for parasitical, wingless insects. The adults of flea feed on the blood of their host they are seen as surface parasites on the skin of human beings, other mammals, and birds. They are found in every situation and place in the world. They lay eggs at the edges of carpets, between floorboards, in the folds of curtains, in refuse piles, and in other places that provide safety and adequate nutrition for the larvae. These eggs become larva in five to seven days and they are armed with biting mouthparts. They nourish for two to three weeks on crude refuse; the larvae spin cocoons and enter a pupa stage which turns to an adult in about one to two weeks. Adult fleas are about 1 to 8 mm in length; they have wide, rather flat, polished bodies, which are light red-brown to very dark brown, short antennae, and piercing and sucking mouthparts. They have minute or no eyes at all. They have long and powerful legs which enable them to leap moderately high into the air.

Now, there are numerous flea species and they infest household pets and domestic animals. The dog flea and the cat flea are two of the most common species, both of which are parasites; sometimes they are on human beings, poultry, and livestock in the absence of their natural host. The human flea, the species commonly found on people, is distributed throughout the world. The dog flea, cat flea, and human flea are all intermediate hosts of a common cat and dog parasite, the cucumber tapeworm (Dipylidium caninum). Tapeworm eggs are deposited in faecal matter, and some of these eggs may clutch to the fur of the primary host. Flea larvae swallow the tapeworm eggs. The worm larva remains within the flea during all its life stages, but becomes infective only in the adult flea. An animal or human being becomes infected when it swallows an infected flea, as, for example, when an animal licks its fur. The adult tapeworm then begins to develop inside the host animal. Human cases are rare and accidental. The rat fleas, in the tropics and in Europe, are important carriers of bubonic plague, as is the sticktight flea, which is also noted for its habit of clinging tenaciously to its host. Dog eczema is usually connected with the presence of fleas.

To control fleas, you have to target the adult and the larva, in summary you have to destroy the adults and making breeding places unsuitable for larval life. Adult fleas are destroyed by judicious application of insecticides or petroleum jelly. These agents must be properly used to avoid harm to the infected animal or person.

Controlling Flea Infestation

How do you know when you have a flea problem, and what do you do about it? The rest of the site covers a number of flea control methods you can use to get rid of your fleas, but this page discusses how to figure out whether your house is infested with fleas in the first place, and once you know that it is, what parts of the house you should check for fleas. If you don't know where to look, you can't know where to target the fleas with various products designed to eliminate them.

Fleas will get into any area where your pet sleeps or plays. Often, a the problem will simply be obvious - you'll
keep seeing fleas everywhere. You can find out fairly easily. Get a fine comb and groom your dog or cat - if you find little black speckles of what looks like dirt, you know that you have some new little friends. (This is flea excrement, so get ready to wash your hands). If you can't find this, but still think you have fleas, try sitting down on the floor and reading a book. If you do this for a half hour or so, you'll be sure whether or not you have fleas - they show up pretty dramatically against the background of the white pages of a book, and you will hear a clicking noise as they jump and land on the pages. This is a sure sign of fleas.

Once you know that you have them, you need to know where the fleas are in particular. Usually, they are focused in particular parts of the house. Wherever your pet sleeps is always going to be covered in fleas - it will have adults, and likely flea eggs as well (they fall off the dog or cat as it moves around). Carpets where your pet wanders around will also be filled with fleas - they can dig in there, and eggs easily get buried in the fibers. You should also check the back yard if you have one - often this is the source from which the whole thing starts. It's a little harder to tell whether they're out there, but it's usually a safe bet if the house has them and your pet goes outside frequently. You will either have to use flea control products such as frontline or advantage use products designed to kill flea in yards or keep your pet inside, because if you don't, they will just come back the next time Fido goes out to play.


Advantage Flea Control for Cats

The use of drugs on the pets is not very safe at times. One needs to be extra careful in selecting drugs for pets, because there is no substitute to the comfort and health of the pet.

With regard to the care of cats, one needs to be a step ahead in care as the pet demands attention from the pet owner. Advantage flea control for cats is considered to be the ideal drug for use on cats. The brand has gained the confidence of the people in the market, and everyday the popularity graph is on the rise as the number of customers dealing with the drug's use is increasing.

Advantage flea treatment for cats has many advantages which makes it the right product to be used for flea control on cats. The advantages include:

1. Advantage flea control kills the fleas within 12 hours after the application.
2. Advantage flea control prevents flea biting after 3 to 4 minutes.
3. Advantage flea control is the right drug for kittens that are of the age of 6 to 8 weeks.
4. Advantage flea control is used on one spot and from there the medication spreads.
5. Advantage flea control helps in maintaining good health of cats. As many cats are allergic to flea biting, it gives added protection from this aspect.
6. The drug is used in order to keep the cats well protected from the attacks of fleas and ticks, thereby reducing the chances of damaging their health.

The drug is widely used by people who have kept cats with them, and they are advised to get the drug recommended by the veterinary doctor in order to improve on the health of the cat. Advantage flea treatment for cats is the kind of drug which has a comparatively lesser number of side effects which are not dangerous. Although it can have side effects, proper knowledge and information about the use and storage of the drug will always help individuals in protecting pets from the harmful effects of the drug.

The Advantage flea treatment for cats is used in order to protect the cats from the undesired effects of the insects which at all costs are supposed to be safe guarded. The drug is highly recommended for use, and there is no doubt with regard to the quality of the manufactured product, as the ingredients are well mixed in proper ratio in order to treat the flea biting and related complaints.

Because the drug is of high quality, it is a little expensive. There is simply no substitute for the drug with the end result being the comfort it provides to the pet after the application. Therefore, it is highly recommended to use the drug for the treatment of cats.

Advantage Flea Control

When your dog or cat engages fleas or ticks in battle, give your pet the advantage! Flea control products are a safe, fast and effective means of eliminating flea and tick problems the right way the first time.

It's tempting to try to take the easy way out - just cross your fingers and hope that fleas and ticks don't happen to your pet. Unfortunately, if you live in parts of the country where fleas and ticks are prevalent, you could be putting your other pets and family members at risk for uncomfortable flea and tick bites, as well as the dangerous diseases these parasites carry, if you let your pet go "au natural."

Spot applications of flea drops such as Advantage flea control, Frontline for dog or cat fleas, and K-9 Advantix are a good way to apply a small, targeted flea treatment that will go right where it's needed without "spraying" or "dipping" your dog - processes that uses more medication than really necessary, and without using a flea collar which may be ineffective at the tail end of your dog, anyway.

You can supplement your efforts with natural flea control methods including cedar shavings in the pet's bedding area, regular vacuuming, and combing your dog to inspect for and remove fleas and ticks by hand.

These processes can be time consuming, though, and if you're not going to have time to keep up with them, fleas and ticks can easily get the better of you because they are hard to detect when they arrive and can multiply quickly.

Break the flea life cycle and keep flea eggs already in your home from re-starting the infestation cycle, with an easy monthly application of Advantage flea control products, Frontline, or K-9 Advantix for dogs.

Whichever product you use, be sure to read the directions and follow them closely.

AC Frontline Flea Control

For common problems suffered by your pet, ACFrontline Flea Tick Control product will provide you pest control you need. When choosing a product to use on your pet, you want something that is harsh to parasites like fleas and ticks, and yet gentle to your pets. Advantage or Frontline is among the top flea and tick control products out in the market today.

Upon the first sign of irritation or discomfort on your pet, bring them to your veterinarian right away. After all, it should be common knowledge among pet owners that most pets are easily susceptible to these pests. But there are greater risks posed against your pet dogs or cats since the presence of these pests can irritate their skin. Furthermore, your pet will scratch excessively just to alleviate their suffering from itch and that's when things take a turn to the worst.

You must never ignore the presence of fleas and ticks of your dog, thinking that it is a normal condition. Aside from the possibility of acquiring serious skin diseases, they are also in danger of serious health problems. A responsible pet owner will readily find solution to remedy your pet's condition. So, after you consult with your pet's vet, you have to find an effective flea and tick control product.

You can avoid any further dilemma regarding your pet's health by using ACFrontline Flea Tick control products. Frontline offers an effective flea control shampoo that aims to remove any existing fleas or ticks on your pet's body. Then, it works on stopping the possible growth or increase of flea and ticks that live on your cats or dogs. That is the main purpose of flea and tick control products, not just to remove them but to prevent future infestation.

There is a wide range of available flea and tick control products that you can choose from. The choice of product to use depends mainly on the degree of infection and preventive measures. For example, the Dog Frontline Flea Control helps destroy existing fleas and their larvae within a period of 24 to 48 hours. Hence, as you kill the larvae, you put an end to their life cycle.

Among other products that help control flea and tick infestation include pet shampoo, sprays, powders, dips, solutions, as well as an electronic flea and tick repellant. There are also several home remedies that aim to address this problem such as the use of garlic, vinegar, or yeast. While these products are considered safe since they are free of chemicals, they are not as effective as compared to products made specifically for this purpose.

Advantage and Frontline flea and tick control products have been clinically proven to fight pests that live on your pet's body. Therefore, you can be assured that it is safe for them to use. Consult with your veterinarian first regarding your pet's specific skin type, breed, and size as these will help determine the right dosage of these products to administer on your pet.

The most important step that you can take to free your pets off these pests is to constantly bring them to your veterinarian, as well as constant grooming. However, several ACFrontline Flea Tick Control Products will surely come handy when you need them

Frontline Flea Control

Those annoying fleas in your cat's or dog's fur are just tiny critters that don't look harmful. But hey, the Ebola virus is much smaller but it kills.

Parasitic fleas can cause serious problems if left to their own devices. Flea infestation on pets causes irritation and harms their health, and in some cases, the invasion of these little bloodsuckers into your home leads to bigger problems, such as transmission of diseases, particularly flea bite dermatitis, epidemic murine typhus, tapeworm, and even bubonic plague.

If you think fleas only infest furry animals - and you feel safe because you're clean shaven - think again. In the absence of furry pets, human are their target blood meals. They're voracious bloodsuckers and they will enjoy the 'homo-sapiens vintage.'

Before it happens, you need an effective flea control system. Without it, it would be a great disaster to have pets and their owners sharing the same set of diseases introduced by the fleas.

Flea control methods vary according to the degree of damage these fleas cause. The first big step would be to clean up your surroundings. Frequent dusting, sweeping, mopping, washing and vacuum cleaning will help decrease of the number of fleas at home.

For the flea-infested pets, flea treatment products are necessary. Give your pets daily cold baths. Comb their fur with flea combs. Apply flea shampoo, flea powder, flea collar, flea dip, or even the flea spray. You can even do these to your pets even if they don't have fleas. Prevention is a much lesser bother than cure.

You must also remember that there's a more effective way for treating our flea-infested pet. Consulting a veterinarian is a good start. They practically know all pet-related issues, and they can recommend tested and proven flea control products. It is essential that you and your pet pay the vet a visit for a good assessment of the problem and to know the right pet supplies that could safely deal with the problem in the shortest time.

Talking of flea control products, most veterinarians have long been recommending FRONTLINE. This brand's products are safe (comes with accurate and clear instructions) and highly effective in ridding cats and dogs of fleas. The company guarantees pet-owner satisfaction - and if only pets could leave good comments, they would!

Frontline products are known to be:

User-friendly. Each product comes with easy-to-understand instructions. Frontline flea control products can help solve the problem without giving you a hard time thinking of other complications they might bring.

Frontline Spot On and Frontline Plus, used with pipette, are applied just once in a month to specific spots on the cat's or dog's body (back of the neck for cats; between dog's shoulder blades). These are gentle for puppies and kittens, as well as for nursing tabbies and bitches. These are even stain- and odor-free!

Waterproof. Frontline products are proven water resistant even after swimming, bathing with shampoo, and even exposure to sunlight - for up to 30 days.

Highly effective. You save your pet from discomforts and diseases by combating these harmful fleas with Frontline products. These contain Fipronil, an insecticide that spreads immediately right after application and immediately kills adult fleas by causing hyperexcitation of its nerves and muscles causing its paralysis and death. The products also have insect growth regulator, so before the eggs could hatch and develop into adult fleas that bite, Frontline already works!

Long Lasting. Frontline flea control products work in such a way that these are applied just once a month and immediately functions within 24 to 48 hours. They last for up to 30 days minimum and 60 days maximum! It's not just effective; it is also cost-efficient.

Satisfying. With all these features in one package, any pet could certainly be spared from these invaders. That's why Frontline is Number One in the United Kingdom. Frontline flea control products are not complicated, inexpensive, available in any shops and online stores, and proven effective in keeping a flea-free pets and household!

Keeping healthy pets and healthy homes is the best domestic policy. Don't waste your money trying other products that could harm your pets and bring you more troubles. Trust only the products trusted by most veterinarians, and see how Frontline lives up to its billing.

Effective Flea Control Tips

Are you a pet owner? Perhaps you take a step further and on one of those folks that has a whole menagerie of animals. Now the question is, do they all live inside a house with you? If your answer is yes, then you've probably dealt with the issue of flea control. This is especially problematic for those pets that constantly go from outside to inside all day long. Man, are you guys leaving yourselves opened to a full-time invasion of fleas.

Those pesky little suckers will never leave you alone once they have invaded your inner sanctum. They bounce around on the furniture and carpet in search of pets to nibble on. If you ever heard of flea circus? Don't put one on for you, if you let them. What really stinks is that they can even go after you if they can't find any animals. That's why you have to get down and dirty with some all out flea control.

What do you do to get rid of fleas? Have you ever tried the bug bombs? You know, the ones that you place in the center of the room and they blow smoke throughout your house. Pretty nasty business actually. You actually have to leave the house for hours on end until it clears up, if it ever does actually clear of. If I sound a little skeptical about using this technique then you're right.

The sad thing is that in my experience this method did not even work. It was one form of flea control that cost me more hassle than it did me good. At the end of the day, that nasty cocktail of chemicals gets all over everything. You have to actually wash anything that's washable and went down anything else. It's a real hassle. Fortunately there are other methods of flea control.

A short time ago, my home was invaded with tons of these tiny, dubious little creatures. I wasn't going to play any games with them and decided to pull out all the stops. I wasn't sure how I acquired this dilemma in the first place. It's not like we had pets that went in and out. We only had one cat for Pete's sake. I actually came to the conclusion that the fleas were brought into the house by us as opposed to the cat.

Either way, I called an exterminator for assistance. This was actually the most desirable form of flea control that I could think of. The exterminator came in, treated every room by spraying some kind of poison around the edges of the carpet, and that ladies and gentlemen was it. That's the way I go about this thing. It worked like a charm. I mean the fleas just suddenly disappeared. Apparently they all progress to the outside of the carpet and die. There's a real science involved with these guys.

Oh, and he also gave us a flea control medication to dab on the back of our cat's neck. He really covered it all. In the end, I have to recommend this route to flea control. I guess the professionals really do know their stuff. If you are in need of further information regarding flea control, you can easily go on the Internet and find a ton of information. Get rid of those nasty, little fleas today.

Life Cycle of Flea

My dog has fleas. That one statement is enough to make any visitor to my house run back down the walk to their car.

If you own a pet it's one of those unwritten facts that they will, at one time or another, have fleas. One of the not-so-fun jobs of pet ownership is dealing with an infestation or working to avoid one.

To cope effectively with fleas you should have an understanding of their habits and life cycles. I realize that doesn't sound like fun, sitting-in-front-of-the-fire reading material, but knowing what you're up against is winning half the battle before it starts. So here's the low down on fleas.

Adult flea - lives on the host animal (dog or cat), where the female lays her eggs.

Egg - flea eggs are laid on the animal but fall off into the bedding, carpeting, and elsewhere in the animal's home and hatch into larvae within a few days (depending on heat & humidity).

Larva - flea larvae feed on organic material in the environment and on the droppings from adult fleas. I know it's gross.

As the larvae feed on adult flea droppings, they are found in highest numbers in areas where flea-infested animals spend much of their time.

Pupa - after 5-11 days, the larvae produce a cocoon in which they complete their development. During this stage of their life cycle, fleas are resistant to flea sprays, shampoos, medications,etc.

In ideal conditions, adult fleas hatch from their cocoon in as little as 5 days, although they can live in the cocoon for up to 5 months.

Hatching is brought on by vibration, physical pressure, heat, and air; in other words, the your dog walks in the room, sits down and BAMM.

After hatching, the adult flea finds an animal and within 2 days the female flea begins producing eggs. Fleas can continue to produce eggs for up to 100 days and believe it or not, a single flea can produce thousands of eggs.

I know the whole concept of fleas and their life cycle is gross and personally if I wasn't confronted with our three dogs in constant agony looking at me with those big, sad eyes .. well I'd probably ignore the whole flea thing.

What you do now that you're armed with all this terrific flea knowledge is:

1. Control the fleas on your pet - keep them groomed and use shampoos made for flea control. There are flea medicines that we use in my house. Personally, I prefer "Frontline" because it is a gel and I just rub a little dab at the nape of their neck (do dogs have a nape?) and the fleas are ousted for thirty days or so. You can also get pills like "Program" that control the fleas by sterilizing any female flea that bites your dog.

2. Keep the pet bedding flea-free. This is probably what I had the most trouble with because I have three dogs and they don't sleep in actual beds. But, if you can keep the fleas off the bedding, blankets, carpeting or whatever area they stake-out as their own space, your battle is much easier. Some people even studied fleas and they decided that only about 5% of the adult flea population actually live on your dog. That means the other 95% plus are living either outdoors or in the bedding, carpeting and such.

Don't give up. If you can keep the fleas off your pet or at least under control AND if you are vigilant with the whole bedding issue then fleas won't control your life or that of your dog.

Flea Control

Fleas are wingless, blood-sucking insects that feed on dog, cats, humans and other species. There are many different types of flea each one specific to the animal that it lives on. The most frequent fleas found in the home are the cat flea and dog flea.

THE FLEA PROBLEM

Fleas and ticks are responsible for a number of diseases in pets and people. Some types of ticks, for example, can transmit the bacteria that cause Lyme disease to animals and humans and some fleas can harbor tapeworm larvae, which grow into adult tapeworms in the intestines of pets or people. Flea bites commonly cause skin irritation and itching and some pets are allergic to flea saliva.

Taking care of your pets responsibly includes protecting them from fleas and ticks. Fleas can be a problem even in the best kept homes and on the cleanest of pets. The best approach to managing fleas is prevention. But if you already have a flea problem, you can control them as long as you treat both your pet and your home. Many products are available to help control fleas and ticks on pets and in their environment. Check with your veterinarian for appropriate treatments.

FLEA TREATMENT AND CONTROL

The objective of treatment is to break the flea life cycle by treating the home, the pets, and the outside environment with insecticide. Before purchasing and applying pesticide products to pets to control fleas and ticks, talk to your veterinarian about the best product to use and how to treat the animal, as well as the environment.

After feeding on your pet's blood the female flea lays eggs which drop into the animal's bedding or favourite resting place. The highest concentration of eggs, larvae and pupae are likely to be in these areas rather than on the animal itself. This means the vast majority of the flea population lives in your yard or home.

Regular cleaning of bedding combined with thorough vacuuming of furniture and floors will help to destroy each stage of the flea's life cycle. Frequently vacuum floors, upholstered furniture, and areas where pets may sleep indoors. Treat animal bedding by boiling, or use animal-safe insecticides or other products recommended by your vet.

When treating the yard, don't forget to treat under bushes and in flower beds. If pets travel in the car, treat car seats and carpets as well.

You should continue to vacuum the house frequently and thoroughly. Throw away the dust bag (vacuum cleaner bags) from your vacuum after each use to prevent any flea eggs and larvae from developing. Don't allow pets to roam and pick up fleas from other animals and keep pets out of hard to clean areas.

PROFESSIONAL FLEA CONTROL

Once fleas are established, eliminating them requires persistence. If home treatments are ineffective, professional extermination may be needed. Further advice on methods of treatment can be obtained from the environmental health officer at your local council, or a commercial pest control company. You can also pay a visit to your veterinarian who will recommend services or products suitable to treat your pet and your home.

Flea Control

Fleas are small insects that are capable of giving humans and their pets big troubles with a little stab of their proboscis. There are over 2,400 species of fleas worldwide, but fortunately, there are just four or five species of fleas that are a threat to humans. The most commonly found species in America is the cat flea, which feeds on cats and dogs, as well as humans.

An infestation of fleas can be a serious threat, not merely an annoyance, in some cases. Flea bites can cause skin irritations as well serious allergies in pets and humans. Sometimes, more dangerous fleas pass on serious diseases. So it becomes very important to prevent them from breeding, or destroying them once they are present, by using various measures.

The first step towards stopping the growth of the fleas is through vacuuming the house on a regular basis. This helps in keeping the flea population low by killing adult and egg-stage fleas, although vacuuming has not proven very effective in killing the flea larvae. As a more advanced step, cracks should be sealed after vacuuming, to permanently eliminate these favorite breeding areas for fleas.

In cases of severe infestation, steam cleaning and other measures might be required. Research shows that if a cat flea larva is exposed to 1030F for one hour, it dies. Some commercial devices are available in the market to produce such lethal temperatures. As this tool that generates heat consists of a loose shaft, it can only be applied locally. Therefore, fleas may escape by hiding in the carpet or elsewhere.

Another method of killing fleas is by using insecticidal on the organic matter accumulated outside the house. Another product, named Insecticidal Dust, containing silica aero gel, is also successful in killing fleas by rupturing their skin and absorbing the oil and moisture. The direct application of products containing citrus peel extracts, d-limonene, and linalool on pets’ bedding are useful in killing fleas in all the stages of growth. Finally, pest control products sold by veterinary doctors, like sodium poly-borate, applied on carpets, are also useful in killing fleas.

Taking preventative steps at the right time can save us from the annoyance and troubles caused by these tiny creatures; but if we already have them, there are a number of ways to eliminate them.

Flea Control For Cats

No need to wrestle your cat into a flea dip anymore. The latest preventive treatments are easy to apply. While shampoos and flea collars are still options, parasitologists have developed wonderful new weapons in the war against fleas and ticks. With simple monthly administrations of these oral, injectable, or topical medications, you can guard your cat against flea and tick infestations. Fleas and ticks are dangerous disease carriers that can make your cat's life miserable. Fleas can transmit tapeworms and cause itchy allergic reactions, which can lead to scratching, hair loss, and infection. Fleas ingest animals' blood, and the bloodsuckers can actually consume so much that some cats die of blood loss. Hence it's crucial to keep your cat flea-free.

These Treatments Keep the Pests Away

New medications prevent infestations by killing the adults that hitch a ride on your furry friend or by keeping their eggs from hatching. Here's what you need to know about the most common flea and tick preventives in your veterinarian's arsenal.

Program contains lufenuron, a chemical that prevents flea eggs from hatching but does not kill adult fleas. It is available as a monthly oral tablet or suspension and as a twice yearly veterinarian administered injection. This compound doesn't work against ticks.
Frontline is available in a dab-on formula or a spray. It uses fipronil to wipe out both fleas and ticks, and it continues to work even after you give your pet a bath.

Advantage (imidacloprid) is a topical treatment that also withstands washings and keeps killing fleas for a full month.

Revolution (selamectin) is the latest big gun among the monthly options for flea and tick prevention. You apply a few drops of the liquid medication to your pet's skin, and it guards against heartworms, flea eggs and adult fleas, ticks, ear mites, hookworms, and roundworms.

If Your Cat Has Been Infested

If you started using one of these flea medications after you discovered a flea infestation, you'll need to treat your house too. Fleas can live for several months in your house and yard, and flea eggs may hatch in your carpet, cushions, and drapes for years. Your cat isn't the only one at risk: People can get irritating fleabites too. Ridding your home of these pests takes time and a concerted approach. Here's what to do.

To get rid of housebound fleas

Use professional flea foggers in each room and sprays for hard-to-reach spots. Clean the flea eggs out of your house by vacuuming several times in a week. After each vacuuming session, remove vacuum bags and tape them closed, then throw the bags away. Also clean your cat's favorite hangouts and wash her bedding regularly.

If your flea problem is recurring

You may need to treat your yard as well. Use professional concentrated yard sprays for the outdoor fight. You can buy many that attach easily to the end of a garden hose for application. It's especially important to spray moist and shaded areas of your yard. Note: You should never use any environmental treatment directly on your pet. Ridding your pet and home of these hardy pests is a tough job, but you'll rest easier knowing that your cat doesn't have to endure the maddening itch or insidious diseases these parasites can inflict.

General Flea Control II

Treating the Pet's Environment:

In general, the products used in the environment can be more toxic and last longer than those which are applied to the animal. Never use these products directly on your pet or children unless the bottle states it is safe to do so (even then, I would question this.)

Where young children and infants are concerned, more importance is placed on safety than effectiveness. This is why it is important for you to be involved in the choices of products for your home and pets.

Premise control products kill only the susceptible stages of the fleas at the point in time they are used. They are fairly safe and can be used as the main environmental treatment in homes that have birds and fishes as pets. The frequency of fogging and spraying depends upon the temperature and humidity, degree of flea infestation, the traffic of pets in and out, the effectiveness of the products used, and the amount of household clutter in which fleas can hide.

Foggers are designed to cover large enclosed areas and are set off while all occupants (including pets) are away. They are most effective in empty spaces and in crawl spaces. In homes with furniture or items covering the floor they are not very effective. Foggers can take care of up to 80% of the problem. Make sure you get one with a growth inhibitor in it.

When using foggers, remove all living things from the premises. Cover your fish tanks and remove all the birds. Read labels prior to using any foggers or premise sprays. Because the insect growth regulator Methoprene is also removed with vacuuming, vacuum or steam clean before using them and wait at least 4 days after fogging to vacuum. Foggers are basically gone after 10-15 vacuumings.

Put your dollars into growth inhibitor products for most effective and economical results.

Premise Sprays are designed for spot treatment or for difficult to reach areas and for areas which are not enclosed such as a back porch or doghouse. Use premise sprays for the baseboards, under the furniture, and between the couch cushions and around the edges of the water bed mattress.

These products last 2-3 months, are not as easily vacuumed up (they last for 20-30 vacuumings) and are very good for high traffic areas and for continuous protection. These products are broken down and become ineffective by the sun's rays. Use them for touch up in well-traveled pathways in the house where you may vacuum more often. Don't forget to treat your car if you pets travel with you (even just once to the vet.) This product is effective and a good use for your dollars.

Yard and kennel sprays are for outdoor use and should be used in accordance with manufacturer recommendations. Most fleas live within a 30-foot radius of the building -- where most pets spend their time. These sprays can be purchased at your veterinarian's office, pet shops, on-line, or at the local garden store.

Nematodes that eat flea larvae: A few years ago I carried a natural product of nematodes to sprinkle on your lawn that would kill the flea larvae. That would be a great product if it were effective. The downfalls to this product were that it had to be kept wet, the expiration dates are short, it is expensive, and one can does not go far. If anyone of you out there has found a good product like this could be, let me know!

Malathion and Sevin are the sprays used most frequently for the yard, but get inactivated by sunshine and they will not last over 3-7 days. Spray them after the sun has gone down and when you know it won't be raining for a day or two.

Housekeeping can be an extremely effective flea control measure. Vacuuming will remove flea eggs, pupae and the flea droppings used by the larvae for food. Vacuum up some flea powder or add a piece of flea collar to each new bag or burn the vacuum sweepings to prevent fleas from completing their life cycle in the compost heap or trash bag. Vacuuming EVERY DAY is essential if you don't want to use chemicals. Also, getting rid of carpet in your house helps a lot. I would also recommend an occasional shampoo of the carpets (not dry-chemical cleaning) as it will suffocate the cocoons.

A note about worms: When fleas (or mice) are ingested by your pet the tapeworm (cestode) is allowed to finish its life cycle. If you see rice-sized segments sticking to the hairs around the rectum of your pet or see the segments or "ribbon or noodle-like" worms in the stool or on the animals bedding you should contact your veterinarian for a drug to treat them. Over-the-counter worm preparations only treat nematodes (roundworms) and are not effective against tapeworms. Worming may be necessary as often as every three weeks (the life cycle of the tapeworm) depending on the severity of the flea problem.

When in doubt (especially for large dogs, which can be very expensive to worm,) bring in a fresh stool sample for a floatation. The floatation may not show eggs even though your pet has worms.

My recommendation is to worm your pets if you are seeing fleas with a good tapewormer (I use Cestex) and worm twice a year with pyrantel pamoate (also called Nemex or Strongid-T) roundwormer. Piperzine is useless these days for roundworming and no longer works at all in cats. The grocery store doses are ineffective.

If you have wormers at home and would like to try to use them up first, call your vet. We need to know the chemical name (scientific name) to be able to tell you if you have the proper medication.

NEVER give a store bought wormer to a pet who is sick unless your vet is consulted first. You may cause some severe problems--especially with triple wormers. I once had a relative give her pregnant dog a triple wormer. The dog strained so much that her uterus burst and she died.

Diatomaceous Earth: Not all diatomaceous earth (DE) is alike. Stay away from filtration types. All DE that is used for filtration purposes (pools, spas, etc) has undergone chemical and heat treatment. The heat treatment greatly increases the percentage of crystalline silica, which poses a serious inhalation risk. DE has high crystalline silica content and some DE has high levels of arsenic in it. Our local organic people recommend Perma-Guard (www.perma-guard.com). Another brand to use that is safe is Biconet. Only natural untreated DE should be used for insect control.

How does DE work? The dust clogs their breathing apparatus so they suffocate. Unfortunately it may also make asthma symptoms worsen.

Mopping with soap and mild bleach water is quite effective for flea control in those houses with no carpets. Many of my clients with flea allergic animals and inhalant allergy children eventually change over to hardwood floors and linoleum.

Flea attractant lights. What a racket. Don't waste your money on this gimmick.

White dishes filled with water and Joy dish soap: I suspect if you are attracting fleas to this kind of contraption that you have a severe infestation and should think about doing something a bit more effective.

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