Colorado Companies Team Up With U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service to Protect

WELLINGTON, Colo., Nov. 5 /PRNewswire/ -- The endangered black-footed ferrets inhabit prairie dog towns in the western U.S. This rare carnivore feeds on prairie dogs. The prairie dogs are very susceptible to plague and often entire population die-offs in towns occur. The U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service (FWS) has implemented a ferret breeding program and has been releasing trained, captive ferrets into their formerly native habitat. Unfortunately, plague can sweep through and decimate an entire prairie dog town, eliminate the food supply to ferrets thus starving the small carnivores.

A standard procedure used by the FWS is to proactively dust prairie dog burrows with an insecticide known as Deltamethrin, which kills fleas and protects the prairie dogs from being bitten by plague carrying vector.

This is where two small Colorado-based companies play a role in black footed-ferret protection. Genesis Labs, using grant funds provided by the CDC, has developed prairie dog bait, containing a systemic insecticide. The rodent eats the bait and is not harmed, but the insecticide is absorbed into the blood of the prairie dog. When fleas take a blood meal from the rodent, they are killed within a matter of minutes.

The innovative product is EPA registered and marketed by Scimetrics Ltd. Corp. under the name Kaput Rodent Flea Control Bait. It is the only product of its kind in the world. Genesis and Scimetrics are also working with the Department of Defense and have developed a similar product to control sand flies in the Middle East. U.S. troops serving there are victims of a disease known as cutaneous leishmaniasis. Much like the prairie dogs association with fleas and plague, leishmaniasis is associated with the sand fly and a rodent known as the fat sand rat.

Field testing using Kaput Rodent Flea Control Bait by the FWS initiated in 2009, with more research to be conducted next spring and summer. Preliminary results show that the bait may assist at managing flea populations within prairie dog towns. Genesis and Scimetrics are developing a second product that may be available within two years. That bait would have a longer residual effect in the blood and kill fleas over a longer period. Genesis is committed to working with the FWS in developing innovative products to help protect the endangered black-footed ferret.

For more information on Genesis
visit their website at www.genesislabs.com.

SOURCE Richland Foundation

Richard Poche of Richland Foundation, +1-970-568-7059

Animal control, MSPCA chasing away dog overpopulation

Animal Control Officer David Parsons patrols the city looking for dog owners to chat with about whether their pooches are licensed, vaccinated and capable of reproducing. Time and time again, he found people who didn't have their dogs fixed, which helped explain the abundance of strays at the city pound.

But that has changed since Parsons teamed up with the Massachusetts Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals at Nevins Farm in Methuen two years ago to establish a program where animal control officers go to willing Lawrence residents' homes, pick up their dogs, and take them to be spayed or neutered at the MSPCA for half the regular cost of the surgery.

The owners don't have to leave home because Animal Control will return the dog when the surgery is done.

Before the program began, Animal Control had 12 dogs at the pound each week, on average, Parsons said.

"Today, I have only three," he said recently.

The practice of approaching dog owners face to face, combined with Animal Control's response to dog complaints, has led to the spaying and neutering of an average of 12 dogs per month, Parsons said.

Those involved are looking to take a bigger bite out of dog overpopulation by expanding the service. The MSPCA is telling people they can call to arrange for Animal Control to pick up their dogs and take them for surgery.

The overall goal is for MSPCA veterinarians to spay and neuter as many dogs as possible to reduce the number of pups, thus alleviating the burden on local shelters caring for homeless animals, according to Mike Keiley, manager of the Noble Family Animal Care & Adoption Center at the MSPCA.

"We're one of the only businesses in the world that's looking to go out of business," Keiley said.

The usual fee for the surgery is $150, but Lawrence residents only have to pay $75, or cost.

"To get a dog spayed and neutered is anywhere from $300 to $400 at a vet," said Parsons.

Compared with other local communities, Lawrence has the largest number of strays and unclaimed animals in shelters, Keiley said.

The MSPCA is funded through donations, and it recently received a $4,500 grant from the Massachusetts Animal Coalition to help pay for the spay/neuter program.

The spay/neuter package includes the surgery, rabies vaccination, a distemper vaccination and a microchip.

The other aspect of the program is teaching people about why spaying and neutering is important, Keiley said.

Keiley said the surgery helps curb behavior problems, such as spraying, marking, aggression and the desire to roam. Fixing a pet before it reaches adolescence is recommended, and it can help prevent certain illnesses, including mastitis and reproductive cancers, Keiley said.

The MSPCA is soliciting private donations to help continue the service.

"It's going to be indefinite as far as I'm concerned," Keiley said of the program. "I think we'll reapply for the grant again next year. We'll shoot for double the amount."

Surgeries can be arranged by calling 978-687-7453, ext. 6101.

Cat owners can receive help by calling the Merrimack River Feline Rescue Society, which offers a subsidized spay/neuter program for cats with their mobile clinic, the Catmobile. The Catmobile package includes the spay/neuter surgery, rabies vaccination, distemper vaccination, flea treatment, de-worming and a physical exam for $75 for male cats and $100 for female cats. To book an appointment, call 888-495-7729, or e-mail spaymass@mrfrs.org.

Borate compounds was shown to be effective in killing pests

Q: I am considering buying a product called Dustmite and Flea Control made by the Ecology Works. I am allergic to dust mites and live in a carpeted apartment (can't take it out).

I sleep on my upholstered couch because I use my one bedroom for an office and studio. I want to spray as recommended on my couch and carpets after vacuuming.

Are there health risks to me if I spray on my couch as my face is not far from the back of the couch when sleeping. I wash the comforter often and have put pillow cases on the pillows that act as a barrier to the dust mites and change the top pillowcases a couple of times a week, but I am sure the dust mite debris is still coming off from the back and arms of the couch.

- G. Q., Pleasanton

A: Dustmite and Flea Control is made from boron, a naturally occurring element. It is harmful if ingested but if used as directed, it is not hazardous. It is closely related to borax, which is a combination of sodium, boron and oxygen and to boric acid, which is another very useful product.

Borax is an antibacterial and antifungal product that has been used as a cleanser and shampoo for many years. Boric acid is a crystalline material made from borax and is very effective in controlling many pests when used as a bait and mixed with normal food products.

Boric acid will also kill insects on contact: The product causes the insect to lose the waxy layer that helps it retain moisture and it dehydrates. Boric acid will remain effective for years in a dry environment. Borax will control or eliminate mold and many kinds of insects, including ants, lice, fleas and termites.

Borate compounds,when applied to wood, will kill termites and other wood-destroying insects by starvation. The product destroys their digestive enzymes and protozoa.

Because they are harmful if ingested, borate products should be kept out of reach of children or pets.

Q: A termite inspection uncovered both subterranean and drywood termites.

Something does not seem right though. They looked for pellets to confirm the presence of drywood termites. I can see how if there are pellets that means that there were termites, at some point in the past. But how does that guarantee that there are still termites active in the home?

Also, after the treatment is done and I check for pellets again, I will still see the same pellets in the same place. So how would I know that the treatment has been effective?

- P. K., San Jose

A: If pellets were found, that means there is an existing colony of drywood termites. They would not leave a perfectly edible house for no reason. They have to be evicted.

When the job is complete, make sure you clean or vacuum up all visible existing pellets. Then if you see more in the same areas, you will need to contact the company.

By: Richard Fagerlund

Heat sparks ticks and flea into action

There is need for an extra care for your pets this season cos it's all over the news. according to the chronicle

TICK and flea season has come early this year in Toowoomba, the result of significantly warmer weather conditions.A warmer-than-average winter and spring have provided the perfect breeding conditions for the parasites and both pet owners and householders are being warned to stay alert.Apart from causing discomfort, both ticks and fleas can carry diseases that affect humans and pets.

Toowoomba Veterinary Hospital veterinarian Louis Gilshenan said he had seen more ticks this season then usual.“We usually see ticks after a rain and when it is warm,” Mr Gilshenan said.“Fleas are always going to start in spring; their numbers increase because their lifecycle speeds up when it is more humid.

“Flea control should be done all year and the most effective is a topical spot on treatment every month and there is also a new tablet out, which is very effective at controlling fleas.

”Mr Gilshenan said people can get their house sprayed, but should concentrate more on breaking the lifecycle by treating your animals.“With ticks, it is not 100 per cent prevention,” he said.“We advise spot on treatment every two weeks, or a tablet that is taken every two days. A tick collar works quite effectively as well.“People who live in tick areas like on the escarpment, down the range, east Toowoomba and Highfields really need to be tick aware.”

Fleas and Ticks - Facts you should know to protect you and your pet

When spring comes around, you know flea & tick season has begun and it is vital to keep your pet and home flea & tick- free! Don't let these pesky parasites spoil your spring and summer!

What are Fleas? - Fleas are small wingless parasitic insects that live off the blood of mammals and birds. Frequently, fleas just bother our furry friends, but sometimes they develop allergic reactions to the fleas’ saliva. This leads to the development of rashes and even loss of fur from excessive scratching or biting. This is called flea allergy dermatitis, and when present can lead to secondary skin infections from the biting and scratching done to alleviate the itching. Even if your pet doesn't have allergic reactions to fleas, you should beware. Fleas can carry diseases such as tapeworms and Lyme disease. Although tapeworms are not actually transmitted through flea bites, the fleas often carry tapeworm eggs. When your pet bites to relieve itching, he may ingest the parasite and become infected.

Lifecycle - Fleas have four stages in their life cycle; egg, larva, pupa & adult. The length of the cycle can be anywhere from 2 weeks up to a year, depending on the environment; temperature, humidity, and food availability. One flea can produce 2,000 eggs in its lifetime and can reproduce year-round in southern climates. The prefer high humidity and temperatures is why we notice them so much more during the warm summer months.

What are Ticks? - Ticks are parasitic vertebrates that infest every class of terrestrial vertebrate, including mammals, birds, reptiles, and amphibians. A tick is not an insect. They are members of the class Arachnida, which includes spiders, scorpions, and mites. While there are many species of ticks throughout the world, only a few are known to cause problems to humans and pets in North America. Ticks are more likely to target dogs. If you live in an area populated with ticks you should keep a sharp eye on these parasites. They can transmit serious diseases (such as rickettsial diseases like Rocky Mountain spotted fever and ehrlichiosis) to dogs and even to humans.

Begin with a Game Plan that protects your pet, home and yard - The best way to help your furry companion is to get veterinary advice. There are two types of products out there for use on your pet, one is to prevent fleas from developing on your pet, and one is to treat an active infestation.

1. Flea and Tick Prevention
There are orally administered products on the market formulated to bread the flea's life cycle by preventing flea eggs or larvae from developing into adults. However, these products have no effect on adult fleas that may currently exist on your pet. Treat it by using a topical or oral flea medication will prevent the unnecessary suffering of your pet. If your pets are not on flea preventatives, there's a good chance they "Got fleas". Fortunately, a relatively new class of flea control products such as Frontline Plus, Advantage, and others has been introduced over the past few years. These treatments are used monthly and provide the best protection available against fleas.

2. Immediate Flea and Tick Medicine
Fleas spread fast, which is why immediate relief is often necessary. The distribution of fleas often involves the lower back, base of the tail, toward the back, the abdomen, flanks and neck. It may become quite generalized in severe cases, leading to total body involvement. ·

Products that will kill fleas on your pet the fastest - Applying an insecticide directly to your pet are the quickest and most efficient way to kill fleas. One of the most famous products is Frontline Spray. These kinds of sprays penetrate to the skin where most of the fleas are found. Once the insecticide comes in direct contact with the fleas, it will only take a few minutes for the fleas to die. Products that are applied to one spot on the coat, such as Advantage for dogs or cats, are also very effective in killing fleas. These products provide long term whole body protection. ·

How long will it take to get your flea problem solved? - Adult fleas are usually killed fairly quickly, while newly developing fleas in the environment surrounding your pet, may delay complete flea control. If you currently have infestations on your pet and in your home, it may take approximately 2 to 3 weeks after the initial application before you see complete flea eradication. You may need to treat your home after 2 weeks, to kill new adult fleas as they emerge from their protective pupal cocoons.

3. Home and Yard Flea and Tick Protection
If one pet in the household has fleas, assume that all pets in the household have fleas. A single flea found on your pet means that there are probably hundreds of fleas, larva, pupa and eggs in your house. When vacuuming an area you suspect may have fleas, throw the bag out immediately. Deny fleas their natural habitat by removing any piles of damp twigs or grass from around your home. Check pets for ticks before bringing them inside. Remove embedded ticks using fine-pointed tweezers and destroy them in a jar of alcohol There are wonderful products that we can recommend to treat fleas inside and outside your home. ·

Treating your house for Fleas - If you detect the problem at an early stage, treating your pet alone may be sufficient. However, it only takes a day for a female flea to mate and lay 40 to 50 eggs. These eggs will fall off your pet and soon spread in your home and yard. You will see more fleas within a few weeks, unless you make an effort to control the infestation. This can be accomplished by using the Household Foggers/Sprays, which will help prevent future infestations. ·

How To Prevent a Serious Infestation - It is helpful to use products that will help repel ticks your pet might pick up. Make sure your pet avoids sitting in grassy areas, or wet woody surfaces, to reduce the chances of picking up ticks. In addition, you should check your pet often enough to find and remove any tick that is visible to you. Nevertheless, always keep your yard well mowed and clear of woodpiles, leaves, and other debris to reduce the tick population. Also use the yard sprays frequently to avoid infestation of ticks.

4. Flea and Tick Collars
Flea & tick collars can be effective, but must be applied properly. To get the right degree of snugness, you should just be able to get two fingers between the collar and your pet's neck. Be sure to cut off any excess portion of the collar after you have properly applied it. Otherwise, the animal or other pets may try to chew on the end. CAUTION
When using flea treatment and prevention; make sure that the product you are using is specifically meant for your pet. Do not use medications indicated for dogs on cats, and vice versa, as your pet could get seriously ill or die. In case of accidental administration seek immediate veterinary assistance.

A Final Word
When battling a flea infestation it is important to keep in mind the following: ·
Constant vigilance is required; particularly during those warm summer months. ·
Keep areas where your pet(s) spend(s) a lot of time clean; vacuum, wash & mop. ·

When vacuuming remember to get the creases and crevices as these are a favorite spot for those nasty fleas. ·
Depending on your situation it may take as long as six months to become completely flea free.

Pest control advice from Nigerian pest management expert

The following advice on pest control is based on a report by Vanguard posted Dec 6, 2006.

Dr Godwin Oyediji, Managing Director of Godoye Enterprises Ltd., is a pest management expert who has been practising for over 22 years.
He defined pest management as a system designed to maintain a healthy living environment and provide food safety where minimal damage can only be inflicted by pests. It entails control and prevention of pests.

“The system begins with education. Education about pest management begins with public enlightenment in terms of seminars, group meetings at rural level and public health campaigns to maintain a clean environment where there would be none or a minimal presence of habourages (pest- breeding grounds). It also involves education about an efficient garbage disposal system that would not promote multiplication of pests.”

However, even with best practices pests will still occur at minimal level., because this is a tropical region. The tropical environment promotes rapid multiplication of pests because we have high humidity and high temperatures.

Dr Oyediji said that in order to prevent pests in the environment, what was needed was the application of an Integrated Pest Management ( IPM) approach.

“This approach looks first at human and environmental safety above every other consideration. It starts with designing houses in such a way that all the entry doors into the house are built with iron which cannot be eaten by pests like rats. Other examples of what could be done to minimise the presence of pests include placement of mosquito nets or mesh at the windows; removal of stagnant water and destruction of pest habourages.”

For farmers this should include use of clean seeds. This means that whatever is being planted must be pest and disease free. They must be obtained from tissue culture laboratories by means of cloning. But in-spite of education and preventive measures, there would still be pests around.

“When education and preventive measures fail to minimise the presence of pests in the environment the IPM approach would be utilised to integrate control , educative and preventive measures in the process of pest management”.

The process of IPM involves first of all knowing the pest, and the type of damage it could cause.
“In addition to this, there is need to exercise restraint and patience when pests are noticed. Control measures should only be initiated after pests have exceeded a defined acceptable limit. When control measures are initiated, it must start from non-chemical methods such as physical methods which could include use of fly traps, rat traps, or insect traps.

“Where this is not feasible, he next step should be to introduce biological means. This includes measures like using cats to eliminate rats, or using some types of birds to eliminate certain types of insects; or using some types of bacteria to eliminate certain viruses. But if all these approaches fail, then use of chemical means could be considered.”
When it becomes inevitable to use chemical control for pest management, then chemicals known as persistent organic pollutants must be avoided. The chemical to be used should be such that it is highly biodegradable. This means the chemical must be such that it would completely decay into the environment.

“Part of pest management is bio-security which is the prevention of disease agents from being introduced into an environment usually through pests. Such pests include rats, cockroaches, flies and birds.”
For instance, bio-security could be aimed at stopping birds which carry the bacteria or virus responsible for the bird flu disease from entering the country. Bio-security also combines physical, biological and chemical means to attain food safety and disease prevention.
“Pest management as a business is still in its infancy in Nigeria.

“You need to be an agriculturist to be in this segment so as not to use what will leave undesirable residue in the end-product. A major example is pineapple which is being rejected in some European countries due to high level of ethylene used for inducing flowering or ripening.”
Another sub-sector is livestock pest control for controlling pests like lice and teaks in dogs and within poultry, cattle or pigs.

“If you are not an animal scientist or veterinary doctor, you may not be able to operate in this segment. This is because it is important for you to know the biology of the animal.”

Indoor Flea Control

Indoor

Controlling cat fleas in buildings requires a variety of approaches. Before starting a control program, look through each room in the building to determine areas where larval development occurs. Flea populations are highest in places where dogs or cats regularly sleep. Flea larvae are not usually found in areas of heavy pedestrian traffic or locations that receive exposure to sunlight; they are likely to be present in areas where adult fleas have left dried blood and feces.

Sanitation. Thoroughly and regularly clean areas where adult fleas, flea larvae, and flea eggs are found. Vacuum floors, rugs, carpets, upholstered furniture, and crevices around baseboards and cabinets daily or every other day to remove flea eggs, larvae, adults, and food sources. Vacuuming is very effective in picking up adults and stimulating preemerged adults to leave their cocoons. Flea eggs can survive and develop inside vacuum bags and adults may be able to escape to the outside, so immediately destroy bags by burning or by sealing them in a plastic trash bag and placing them in a covered trash container. Launder pet bedding in hot, soapy water at least once a week.

Thoroughly clean items brought into the building, such as used carpets or upholstered furniture, to prevent these from being a source of flea infestation.

Insecticides. Several insecticides are registered for controlling fleas indoors. Sprays are only needed when you detect an infestation in your home. The most effective products contain one of the insect growth regulators: methoprene or pyriproxyfen. Fleas are known to build up resistance to insecticides, so always supplement sprays with other methods of control such as thorough, frequent vacuuming.

Use a hand sprayer or aerosol to apply insecticides directly to infested areas of carpets and furniture. Total release aerosols ("room foggers") do not provide the coverage and long-term effectiveness of direct sprays unless they contain an insect growth regulator. Treatments with insecticides other than IGRs often fail to control flea larvae because the treatment material fails to contact them at the base of carpet fibers where they develop.

Spray carpets, pet sleeping areas, carpeted areas beneath furniture, baseboards, window sills, and other areas harboring adults or larvae. Use an insect growth regulator (methoprene or pyriproxyfen) that specifically targets the larvae and has a long residual life. As soon as the spray dries, vacuum to remove additional fleas that emerge from the pupal stage in carpets and upholstery. Fleas will continue to emerge for about 2 weeks after treatment because pupae are not killed by sprays. Continue to vacuum and do not treat again for at least several weeks. Always seal and discard vacuum bags so fleas don't escape.

Outdoors

Outdoor flea populations are most prevalent in coastal localities and other places with moderate daytime temperatures and fairly high humidities. In Central Valley locations, populations can become very numerous in shaded and protected areas such as sheltered animal enclosures, crawl spaces where pets may sleep, or vegetated areas adjacent to buildings. If an infested outdoor location is not treated, the flea problem may reoccur if pets are reinfested. However, treatment of the pet with any of the preferred pet treatment products listed above will normally prevent reinfestation.

Outdoor sprays are not necessary unless you detect significant numbers of adult fleas. One way to do this is to walk around pet resting areas wearing white socks pulled up to the knee. If fleas are present, they will jump onto socks and be readily visible.

The best products for elimination of fleas outdoors are formulations that contain a knockdown material such as pyrethrin or permethrin plus an insect growth regulator (pyriproxyfen) to inhibit larval maturation. Avoid products containing diazinon or chlorpyrifos as these materials pollute waterways when they are washed into storm drains by rain, hosing, or irrigation.

Apply sprays directly in locations where pets rest and sleep such as doghouse and kennel areas, under decks, and next to the foundation. It is seldom necessary to treat the whole yard or lawn areas. Flea larvae are unlikely to survive in areas with sunlight exposure or substantial foot traffic.

Regular lawn watering will help destroy larvae and prevent development of excessive flea populations. If possible, open pet sleeping areas to sunlight by removing low-hanging vegetation

Handling Flea Emergency

On the Pet

Several types of products are available to control fleas on dogs and cats. The most effective and safest products inhibit normal growth or reproduction of fleas. Use of these products must be supplemented with good housekeeping in areas where the pet rests. Contact your veterinarian for advice and assistance in selecting the best flea control product for your situation.

Preferred On-pet Flea Treatment Products. New product innovations have made it possible to effectively, conveniently, and safely prevent flea populations from building up on pets. These products are more effective and safer than the traditional insecticide dusts and sprays, which until a few years ago were the only choices for pet owners. The new products contain insect growth regulators (IGRs) such as methoprene (Precor) or pyriproxyfen (Nylar), and insect development inhibitors (IDIs) such as lufenuron (Program). The IGRs are available as flea collars or spot-ons applied to one or two places on the pet's coat. IDIs come formulated as a systemic treatment that must be administered orally and are available from veterinarians. These products work by either preventing the larvae from turning into adults (IGRs), or the eggs from hatching (IDIs), and are virtually nontoxic to pets and people. Two other new types of safe and effective chemicals are fipronil and imidacloprid, which are used as spot-ons. If properly applied before flea season begins and reapplied as necessary, any of these products can prevent a flea infestation.

Spot-on Formulations. Imidacloprid (Advantage) and fipronil (Front-Line) are available from veterinarians and are applied to the animal's skin; a single application provides flea control for 1 to 3 months. These spray and spot-on formulations are much easier to use than baths and are more acceptable to the animal. A few drops of the spot-on formula applied to the animal's shoulder blades move through the animal's coat, providing whole-body treatment. Both materials kill adult fleas within hours of the flea jumping on the animal. Also, these compounds have lower mammalian toxicity than traditionally used flea control products containing carbamates and organophosphates and are safer to use on pets. Generally the spot-on formulations can withstand bathing; check the label for specific instructions.

Systemic Oral Treatments. Several flea control products are internal medications that are administered on a regular basis in the form of a pill or food additive. Older types of medications contained insecticidal materials, mostly organophosphates, that were transported to all skin areas through the animal's blood. Newer products contain insect development inhibitors that do not have the toxicity of the older materials and are much safer to use. The insect development inhibitor lufenuron (Program) can be given as a pill (dogs) or as a food additive (cats) once a month to suppress flea populations. It can also be administered as an injection every 6 months. While this compound does not kill adult fleas, it does prevent flea reproduction. If its use is initiated early in the year before flea populations begin to build, it can prevent the establishment of a flea population in the home, though an occasional adult flea may be sighted on the animal.

Flea Collars. Flea collars containing the insect growth regulators methoprene and pyriproxyfen are virtually nontoxic to pets and humans and can be used on both cats and dogs. The growth regulator is released by the collar and distributed throughout the coat of the pet. Adult fleas coming in contact with the growth regulator absorb it into their bodies where it accumulates in their reproductive organs. Eggs laid by the adult female do not hatch. Flea collars may contain the insect growth regulator as the sole active ingredient or it may be combined with an insecticide. If the collar contains only the insect growth regulator, use another treatment, such as a spot-on product, to control adult fleas if necessary. Flea collars containing methoprene are effective for 4 to 6 months on dogs and up to a year on cats.

Traditional Insecticide Products. Until recently, pet owners had to rely on products containing conventional insecticides (pyrethrins, permethrin, d-limonene, chlorpyrifos, or carbaryl) to control fleas on their pets. These products were formulated as soaps, shampoos, powders, dusts, spray-on liquids, and dips. Although many of these products are still available, they are not as effective or as safe to use as the products listed in the section above titled "Preferred On-pet Flea Treatment Products." Some products are not safe for some pets, such as permethrin products on some cats, and small children and infants should be kept away from animals treated with any of these materials for at least a day or two.

Nonchemical Treatments. Special combs are available that help remove adult fleas from the coat of a shorthaired pet. Removing fleas may provide comfort to the animal and reduce flea breeding. Combing pets at regular intervals is also a good way to monitor the flea population and help you decide when other control measures may be necessary.

Studies have shown that neither Vitamin B1 (thiamine hydrochloride) supplements nor brewer's yeast prevents fleas from feeding; also, herbal collars and ultrasonic devices are not effective flea repellents.

Weird and Wonderful Facts About Flea

Flea Bites

To finish, we present a few of the lesser-known facts about fleas that we've accumulated during 17 years in the business of flea control:

Flea Species

Fleas vary in size quite considerably. In the UK, the Cat Flea is one of the smallest at about 2.5mm long. On the other end of the scale, a heavily pregnant female Human Flea clocks in at an earth-shaking 4mm or so.
Elsewhere in the world, the largest known flea is the Hystrichopsylla schefferi — a flea found in the nest of a mountain beaver in Washington State, USA. It can grow up to 8mm long and has been known to bite a man's arm off at the shoulder blade (Ed's note: OK, there's a certain amount of poetic licence there — but they do grow to 8mm).
Britain's largest flea is, coincidentally, a parasite of Britain's smallest mammal. Hystrichopsylla talpae (usually found on moles) grow to a length of 6.5mm and can be found on the pygmy shrew. Pity the poor pygmy shrew; in relative terms, it would be the same as a man being attacked by a blood-sucking rat.
In nearly all species, the female is larger than the male.
The flea has a considerable number of relatives. There are more than 2000 different species of flea around the world.
63 species of flea are found in the UK. About 10 of those could be found in homes.
In our own homes, the theoretical number of flea eggs left around your house after three days of an infestation of 500 fleas is 20,000.
The flea most commonly found on cats and dogs in this country is the Ctenocephalides felis (the cat flea to you or I).
The largest ever recorded infestation of human fleas in the UK was found at a pig farm in 1986. It reportedly turned an area the size of a tennis court brown. We estimate that to cover an area of that size, this particular flea family must have numbered around 133,378,450!
It is now extremely rare to find a human flea on a human (or, for that matter, a cat or a dog) in the UK — due to increased hygiene standards.

Fleas and Health

Fleas were responsible for one of the greatest changes in the UK’s social history. The Black Rat Flea (Xenopsylla cheopis) was responsible for transmitting what was then called Black Death in the mid-14th century.
These deaths decimated the workforce of labourers in what was still a predominantly agricultural Britain. Survivors found themselves in much greater demand and they could command very much higher wages. The balance of power consequently shifted dramatically from landowner to farm worker.
Later outbreaks of Black Death — now known as Bubonic Plague — were transmitted by the same species of flea. These outbreaks caused a further 35,000 deaths in 1625 and 20,000 in 1665 — in London alone.
The flea population itself has been decimated by the outbreak of disease. Most notably when myxomatosis was introduced to kill around 100 million rabbits in the UK. Collateral damage included an estimated seven billion rabbit fleas.

Fleas and Love

The great metaphysical poet, John Donne (1572-1631) wrote an ode titled "On A Flea On His Mistress' Bosom." Here we publish a short extract:

Madam, that flea which crept between your brest
I envyde that there he should make his rest;
The little creature's fortune was soe good
That angells' feed not on so precious food
How it did sucke, how eagerly sucke you!
Madam, shall fleas before me tickle you?

Men belonging to the Lundaya Murats tribe based in Borneo can be fined one pig if caught picking the fleas from the hair of a married woman.
The male flea sports an organ approximately 2.5 times the length of its own body — the largest, relative to its size, of any insect.
Also a useful part of the male's sexual equipment are two antennae bearing sink-plunger-like suckers. It was believed that these were used to subdue the female. Top thinkers amongst the flea intelligencia now believe that the male needs these suckers just to hang on during the act. If you doubt the necessity for this, bear in mind that when a flea jumps, it does so with an acceleration roughly equal to that of the Apollo space rocket.
The female flea lays her eggs at a prodigious rate. An average of about 30-40 a day. A single female flea will probably lay around 100 eggs during her adult lifespan. That's a theoretical 50 new breeding pairs — each producing another 100 eggs. You can see how a minor problem can rapidly develop into a bad infestation.

Fleas and Music

The instrument of choice amongst flea musicians worldwide is the ukelele. It was so named in 1878 after a Portugese sailor arrived in Hawaii bearing a braguinho - a guitar-like instrument. As he played, the locals thought his fingers as nimble as dancing fleas, or in the Hawaiian language, uke (dancing) lele (flea).

Fleas and Games

One of Britain’s oldest games can trace its origins to the flea. In approximately 15 different European languages, the word ‘tiddlywinks’ translates as ‘the game of the flea.’

Fleas and Blackmail

Fleas have been used as a notably unsuccessful method of blackmail. In 1996, a transexual named Lydia Banot was jailed for eight years at the Old Bailey after blackmailing Harrods. The sex-change extortionist had threatened to release a plague of fleas in the designer clothing department unless a demand for £5 million was met. There’s optimism for you.

Review: The Most Effective Flea Control Products

Spot-on Flea Treatments
Spot-on flea products are applied to the pet. A few drops are placed on the scruff of the neck, under the fur. Most spot-on products contain adulticides designed to eliminate adult fleas from the pet within 24 hours of application.

Benefits of spot-on flea control

Rapid relief from adult fleas on the pet
Easy to apply
Convenient monthly treatment

Oral Flea Treatments

Orally administered products can be used to eliminate both adult fleas on the pet, and flea eggs laid around the house.

Insect Growth Regulators
When a pet is treated with an oral insect growth regulator, it circulates in the animal's bloodstream. Then, if a flea bites the pet, it ingests the insect growth regulator and passes it on to its eggs, rendering them unable to hatch.

With these products, you can have confidence that even if you do see adult fleas on your pet, they will be unable to infest your house with flea eggs. This removes the need to spray insecticides around your house, and makes them ideally suited for preventative flea control.

In fact, oral insect growth regulators can also be used to eliminate an existing household infestation. In this case, once you start treating the pet, any fleas already in the house will hatch, leap aboard the pet, and die without laying any more viable eggs.

These products are available in liquid form for cats and as tablets for dogs, from veterinary surgeons only. They are given in-food once a month.

Benefits of oral Insect Growth Regulators

Effective prevention / removal of fleas in the home.
Protection for the home without the need to use household insecticides, vacuuming etc.
Easy to give, in food.
For dogs, there is a combined insect growth regulator / worming treatment available.
Convenient monthly dosing.

Adulticides
Capstar is an oral adulticide specially developed to offer the fastest removal of adult fleas from a pet. It starts working within as little as 15 minutes, and removes fleas for 24 hours thereafter.

This means that Capstar is ideal for using 'if and when' adult fleas are seen on the pet, in combination with long term use of an insect growth regulator.

Because it kills fleas so fast, Capstar can also be especially useful for those pets that are allergic to fleas.

Benefits of oral adulticide

Fastest relief from adult fleas on the pet.
Especially useful for the removal of fleas from pets that are allergic to them.

Injectable Flea Control
An injectable flea control product is available for cats. It contains an insect growth regulator which prevents fleas from being able to lay viable eggs around your home for a full six months.

When a cat is treated with an injectable insect growth regulator, it circulates in the animal's bloodstream. Then, if a flea bites the cat (which it will), it ingests the insect growth regulator and passes it on to its eggs, rendering them unable to hatch.

With this product, you can have confidence that even if you do see adult fleas on your cat, they will be unable to infest your house with flea eggs. This removes the need to spray insecticides around your house, and makes the product ideally suited for preventative flea control.

In fact, injectable insect growth regulators can also be used to eliminate an existing household infestation. In this case, once you start treating the pet, any fleas already in the house will hatch, leap aboard the pet, and die without laying any more viable eggs.

Benefits of injectable Insect Growth Regulator

Long term household flea protection from one application.
Protection for the home without the need to use household insecticides, vacuuming etc.
No need to remember monthly treatments.
Ideal for people who have difficulty giving or applying other forms of flea medication.

Household Flea Sprays
To kill fleas, we obviously need to know where they are. That’s the difficulty with household sprays. Flea eggs will be dropped around the house wherever the cat or dog goes. Problem is, you won’t always know where that is.

There is only one place we know with absolute certainty that fleas MUST spend part of their lives, and that's on the cat or dog.

That’s why it is always better to treat the pet, not the house.

How to check your pet for fleas

A trained eye isn't usually needed to spot a heavy flea infestation. You'll probably notice your pet scratching, biting its coat, or showing other signs of discomfort. If you then run a fine metal comb through your pet's coat, you might see them crawling around on the comb afterwards.

Often though, you'll notice symptoms of a flea infestation without being able to find the culprit. That's because pets, especially cats, will groom fleas out of their coats long before you've had a chance to try and find out what's making them itch.

If you're in any doubt, carry out a simple flea check. First sit your cat or dog on a large piece of white paper. Then rub its back vigorously for a minute or so. As you rub, any flea faeces will fall onto the paper. You may need to hold the animal's tail between its legs in order to prevent it moving whilst you do this. Next pick up the piece of paper, remove any hair, and transfer the 'rubbings' onto some damp cotton wool. Leave to stand for a minute.

Flea faeces are made up of dried blood from the host they have bitten. When dry, they are dark brown flecks that can be easily confused with dirt or dead skin. But once transferred onto the moist cotton wool, they'll dissolve and turn a lighter shade of red. So, if you can now see red spots on the cotton wool, you can be certain that your pet has been in recent contact with fleas. Treatment is required.

Pest Control: About Flea Infestations

There are over 2000 species of flea in the world. Thankfully, only the cat flea and the dog flea (Ctenocephalides felis, Ctenocephalides canis) are important to dogs and cats. Despite the name, cat fleas infest dogs just as much as they infest cats.

The problem is that fleas breed in stupendous numbers. Each female can lay as many as 200 eggs, which immediately fall off the animal, all around your home.

This is why scientists the world over agree that Integrated Flea Control, where you use one type of insecticide to kill fleas on the pet and another to kill their eggs, is the most effective way to eliminate fleas.

The degree to which you need to control fleas will vary from person to person, and from pet to pet.

You might think that a pet kept entirely indoors would be at no risk of catching fleas. But don't forget that it only takes a visit from one untreated animal to trigger an infestation in your home, so even housebound pets may require flea control.

Pets that routinely go outdoors will likely come into contact with fleas from time to time, and require regular treatment. Finally, some pets are allergic to relatively small numbers of fleas, and may need particularly stringent flea control.

Discuss the most appropriate level of flea control with your veterinary surgeon. Before you do, though, it is important that you have a basic understanding about fleas.

Flea Eggs
Whoever first coined the phrase 'breeding like rabbits' clearly didn't know much about fleas! Where a wild female rabbit may give birth to 30-40 young in a year, a female flea can lay 30-40 eggs in just one day.

Once on your pet, adult fleas take a blood meal (bite) and mate. Within 24 to 48 hours, the female starts laying her eggs. These eggs fall off the animal, wherever it goes in your house.

A typical female flea may lay 200 eggs over a period of five days. They'll hatch in a further 4-12 days, depending on the temperature and humidity.

So, two important facts here:

1. For every flea you can see on your cat or dog, there may be another 200 eggs around the house.

2. This is why experts the world over agree that the most effective flea control involves using 2 types of insecticide: one to kill adult fleas on the pet, and the other to prevent fleas reproducing.

Flea Larvae
Flea eggs hatch into worm-like larvae which move away from light and downwards. This means that they are usually found deep in the carpet pile. They tend to accumulate in areas where the pet rests, but have been observed to crawl as far as 20 feet while in this stage of the life cycle.

The lessons for effective flea control are:

1. Whilst household sprays can certainly help, it can be difficult to be sure that you've treated all the hard-to-get areas that flea larvae congregate.

2. Flea prevention is better than cure. In other words, far better to treat your pet before it catches fleas, than end up chasing possibly hundreds or thousands of flea larvae around the house.

Flea Pupae
After 7-18 days, flea larvae pupate. Not the latest dance fad, but the process by which they spin a protective cocoon around themselves and develop into adults.

Inside the cocoon, fleas are almost impervious to insecticides. In fact, about the only thing that will get them during this stage of their life cycle is a blowtorch (which is perhaps a bit extreme for most people!).

It takes between 5-14 days for fleas to develop inside the cocoon, after which they are triggered to hatch in response to vibration (being stepped on), or the carbon dioxide exhaled by a passing host. But in the absence of a trigger, they can survive inside the cocoon for up to nine months.

So, what does this mean for successful flea control?

1. There are no chemical sprays on the market today that will penetrate the pupal cocoon. So, if you have pupal fleas in the house, you will need to start your flea control programme and accept that it may be weeks before they hatch and can be completely eliminated from the house.

2. Once again, prevention is the best approach to flea control. If you treat your pet before it comes into contact with fleas, you won't end up with flea pupae around your home.

Adult Fleas
A flea can hatch from its cocoon, jump on a passing pet, and begin feeding in as little as 7 seconds.

Unfortunately, scientists believe there is no such thing as an effective flea repellent. It seems that fleas are not repelled by garlic, citronella or brewers yeast.

Adult fleas are permanent ectoparasites. In other words, once they have landed on a pet, they'll stay there until they're removed by grooming or die. That's logical. After all, if you're already sitting in the best restaurant in town, why move?

Adult fleas usually live for a matter of days on a cat or dog, unless swallowed by the pet, or killed by an insecticide. They account for only 5% of a typical flea infestation at any one time (the rest existing in the egg, larval and pupal life stages).

Once again, some important flea control lessons here:

1. Remember, the objective is to kill fleas, not repel them!

2. Whilst it's adult fleas that make most people squirm, they are in fact the smallest part of the problem. Before they die, adult female fleas will lay hundreds of eggs around the home. Effective flea control means using a combination of 2 different types of insecticide: one that kills the fleas on your pet, and the other to prevent fleas laying eggs around your house.

reports from here

safest flea control for pets

Ask Dr. Watts - Dr. Michael Watts, Vet Care, clevengerscorner.com

Published: April 26, 2009

Q: What is the best flea control product to use on my pets?

A: The answer to this question depends on several lifestyle and risk factors. For example, the best product for a dog that likes to swim may be different than the best product for a house cat. The answer may also depend on other parasites you are concerned about. For example, some flea products also protect against ticks, heartworm, mites, or intestinal parasites.

Your family veterinarian is the best person to formulate the ideal flea control program for your pet. Veterinary-quality flea control offers the best possible safety for your pet and efficacy against fleas. There are many brands and types of veterinary-quality flea control. Here is a summary of the most popular monthly spot-on products:

-Advantage – quickly kills adult fleas with some activity against flea larva

-Advantage-Multi – same as Advantage with added medication to prevent heartworm and some intestinal parasites

-Frontline – kills adult fleas, ticks, and lice

-Frontline Plus – same as Frontline with an added flea “birth control” that interferes with the fleas’ reproductive ability

-K9 Advantix – same as Advantage with added medication to kill and repel ticks and mosquitoes; extremely toxic to cats

-Promeris – dog product kills fleas, ticks, and some mites; cat product not labeled for ticks

-Revolution – similar to Advantage-Multi with added benefit of killing some ticks and mites; my favorite product for most cats

There are also several oral medications your veterinarian may recommend to help prevent or control flea infestations. They include:

-Capstar – a daily tablet that quickly kills fleas after they bite

-Comfortis – similar to Capstar, but administered monthly

-Program – a flea “birth control” given as a monthly pill in dogs or a six month injection in cats; prevents fleas from reproducing, but does not kill them

-Sentinel – Program pill combined with heartworm and intestinal worm prevention

Q: Why should I purchase my pets medication from my veterinarian?

A: As pet owners spend increasingly larger amounts caring for their companions, many corporations are seeing profit potential in pet medications. There are several good reasons pet owners should continuing purchasing from their local veterinarian.

First, and most importantly, the proceeds from a sale at your local veterinarian go directly to improving the quality of care for your pet. Dollars spent in the office pay for salaries for the caring staff you know by name, updates in medical equipment used to cure sick pets and continuing education to keep your veterinary healthcare team current. When you purchase from a corporation, your money leaves the local economy and only leads to more shareholder dividends.

Secondly, you can have confidence in the quality and storage conditions of the medications you purchase from your veterinarian. The FDA, EPA, and many state pharmacy boards report complaints about counterfeit medications, ineffective products, and improperly labeled drugs coming from mail-order companies. Many manufacturers are even invalidating guarantees on medications that are not purchased through a veterinarian. You can trust that your veterinarian goes to great lengths to ensure the safety and effectiveness of every medication she supplies.

Finally, purchasing medications through your family veterinarian helps to keep other medical costs down. In human medicine and in veterinary referral hospitals, doctors do not sell medications directly to patients. As a result, all the costs of running a medical facility are charged to patients through high service fees. An examination may cost $200. Surgery easily runs into thousands or tens of thousands of dollars.

In contrast, your family veterinarian’s service fees are substantially subsidized by medication sales. If a significant percentage of pet owners choose to purchase medications through other sources, family veterinarians will be forced to significantly raise service fees to pay for the operation of their offices. By saving a few dollars with mail-order medicine, owners may ultimately find it significantly more expensive the next time their pets become ill or injured.

Classification and Life Cycle of Flea

Scientific classification: Order Siphonaptera. Dog fleas are classified as Ctenocephalides canis, cat fleas as Ctenocephalides felis felis, and human fleas as Pulex irritans. The rat flea of the tropics is classified as Xenopsylla cheopis; the rat flea of Europe as Ceratophyllus fasciatus. The sticktight flea is classified as Echidnophaga gallinacea.

Flea is the general name for parasitical, wingless insects. The adults of flea feed on the blood of their host they are seen as surface parasites on the skin of human beings, other mammals, and birds. They are found in every situation and place in the world. They lay eggs at the edges of carpets, between floorboards, in the folds of curtains, in refuse piles, and in other places that provide safety and adequate nutrition for the larvae. These eggs become larva in five to seven days and they are armed with biting mouthparts. They nourish for two to three weeks on crude refuse; the larvae spin cocoons and enter a pupa stage which turns to an adult in about one to two weeks.

Adult fleas are about 1 to 8 mm in length; they have wide, rather flat, polished bodies, which are light red-brown to very dark brown, short antennae, and piercing and sucking mouthparts. They have minute or no eyes at all. They have long and powerful legs which enable them to leap moderately high into the air.

Now, there are numerous flea species and they infest household pets and domestic animals. The dog flea and the cat flea are two of the most common species, both of which are parasites; sometimes they are on human beings, poultry, and livestock in the absence of their natural host. The human flea, the species commonly found on people, is distributed throughout the world. The dog flea, cat flea, and human flea are all intermediate hosts of a common cat and dog parasite, the cucumber tapeworm (Dipylidium caninum). Tapeworm eggs are deposited in faecal matter, and some of these eggs may clutch to the fur of the primary host. Flea larvae swallow the tapeworm eggs.

The worm larva remains within the flea during all its life stages, but becomes infective only in the adult flea. An animal or human being becomes infected when it swallows an infected flea, as, for example, when an animal licks its fur. The adult tapeworm then begins to develop inside the host animal. Human cases are rare and accidental. The rat fleas, in the tropics and in Europe, are important carriers of bubonic plague, as is the sticktight flea, which is also noted for its habit of clinging tenaciously to its host.

Dog eczema is usually connected with the presence of fleas. To control fleas, you have to target the adult and the larva, in summary you have to destroy the adults and making breeding places unsuitable for larval life. Adult fleas are destroyed by judicious application of insecticides or petroleum jelly. These agents must be properly used to avoid harm to the infected animal or person.

Flea Control For Cats: Applying Advantage

How to apply - Cats

Fast Relief for Your Cat

Applying Advantage flea control to your feline friend is fast and easy. There are two convenient package sizes which offer flexibility in dosing:

For cats and kittens eight weeks or older:

Kittens/Cats 9 lbs. and under
Cats over 9 lbs.

Once you have the correct pre-measured dose from your veterinarian, follow the instructions below to provide your purr-fect companion with fast relief. (Advantage for cats should not be used on any other type of animal. Always consult your veterinarian prior to application.)

To correctly treat your kitten or cat:

Remove one applicator tube from the package.
Hold applicator tube in an upright position. Pull cap off tube.
Turn the cap around and place other end of cap back on tube.
Twist cap to break seal, then remove cap from tube.
Part the hair on the neck at the base of the skull until the skin is visible. Place the tip of the tube on the skin and squeeze the tube twice to apply the solution directly on the skin. Do not get this product in your pet's eyes or mouth. The product is bitter tasting and salivation may occur for a short time if the cat licks the product immediately after treatment. Treatment at the base of the skull will minimize the opportunity for the cat to lick the product.
Discard empty tube by securely wrapping in several layers of newspaper and discarding in trash.

Advantage Flea Control For Dogs: How to apply

How to apply - for Dogs

Fast Relief for Your Dog

Applying Advantage flea control to your canine companion is fast and easy. Advantage is available in four different dosages, which your veterinarian will determine based on your pet's weight. (Advantage flea control for dogs should not be used on any other type of animal. Always consult your veterinarian prior to application.)

For dogs and puppies 7 weeks and older:

Puppies/Dogs 10 lbs. and under
Dogs 11-20 lbs.
Dogs 21-55 lbs.
Dogs over 55 lbs.

If your dog weighs 20 lbs. or less, follow these steps:

Remove one applicator tube from the package.
Hold applicator tube in an upright position. Pull off the cap.
Turn the cap around and place other end of cap back on tube.
Twist cap to break seal, then remove cap from tube.
The dog should be standing for easy application. Part the hair between the dog's shoulder blades on his/her back until the skin is visible. Place the tip of the tube on the skin and squeeze the tube twice to expel the entire contents directly on the skin. Do not get this product in your pet's eyes or mouth.
Discard empty tube by securely wrapping in several layers of newspaper and discarding in trash.

For dogs 21 lbs. and over:

Follow directions above, except in step 5, apply the entire contents of the tube to three or four spots on the top of the back from the shoulder to the base of the tail.

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Advantage Flea Control For Cats and Dogs

About Advantage

Fleas: The unwanted guests in your home, and on your pet.

Everyone loves having friends and family visit, but some house guests can easily wear out their welcome. If your pesky visitors are fleas, these tiny pests can infest both dogs, cats. As you can see, for the health of your pet and sanctity of your home, it is important to get rid of fleas as quickly as possible and prevent their return. and invade your home all year long. Flea bites can cause discomfort for your pet, lead to skin infections, lead to allergic skin reactions causing irritation and can even transmit other disease-causing organisms, including tapeworms

That's why Bayer Animal Health created Advantage, a fast-working, month-long flea control for your pet.

Advantage:

stops biting fleas in three to five minutes¹
starts to kill adult fleas within an hour after application
within 12 hours, 98-100 percent of fleas are dead

Since our launch 10 years ago, millions of pet owners have used gentle, effective Advantage to combat flea infestation. Ask your veterinarian for Advantage flea control by name.

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Advantage for Dogs

Four dosage sizes:

Puppies/Dogs 10 lbs. and under
Dogs 11-20 lbs.
Dogs 21-55 lbs.
Dogs over 55 lbs.
Available in 4 and 6 packs

Advantage for Cats Two dosage sizes:

Kittens/Cats 9 lbs. and under
Cats over 9 lbs.
Available in 4 and 6 packs

Natural Flea Control

There are 2,000 known species of fleas worldwide. But the cat flea, which bites cats, dogs and humans, is the most infamous indoor troublemaker. For every flea found on your animal, there are approximately 30 more in your home.

Most flea control products target only 5 percent of the flea population, the adults. Because fleas become stronger and more immune to chemicals with each generation, toxic chemicals must be repeatedly applied. And, although a product may claim to be natural, some natural ingredients may cause allergic reactions or have toxic effects in animals.

tips to prevent fleas from entering your home:

Spray microscopic nematodes in moist, shady spots outside ? even in flower and vegetable gardens. The worms eat flea larvae and can reduce populations by 90 percent within 24 hours.
Set eucalyptus leaves inside and out because fleas can't stand the smell. Buy bunches at a craft store, cut them up and place leaves and stems in open glass jars. Set one or two in each room of the house. Also, hang pod-filled socks from branches around the yard.

General Flea Control

Scientific classification: Order Siphonaptera. Dog fleas are classified as Ctenocephalides canis, cat fleas as Ctenocephalides felis felis, and human fleas as Pulex irritans. The rat flea of the tropics is classified as Xenopsylla cheopis; the rat flea of Europe as Ceratophyllus fasciatus. The sticktight flea is classified as Echidnophaga gallinacea.

Flea is the general name for parasitical, wingless insects. The adults of flea feed on the blood of their host they are seen as surface parasites on the skin of human beings, other mammals, and birds. They are found in every situation and place in the world. They lay eggs at the edges of carpets, between floorboards, in the folds of curtains, in refuse piles, and in other places that provide safety and adequate nutrition for the larvae. These eggs become larva in five to seven days and they are armed with biting mouthparts. They nourish for two to three weeks on crude refuse; the larvae spin cocoons and enter a pupa stage which turns to an adult in about one to two weeks. Adult fleas are about 1 to 8 mm in length; they have wide, rather flat, polished bodies, which are light red-brown to very dark brown, short antennae, and piercing and sucking mouthparts. They have minute or no eyes at all. They have long and powerful legs which enable them to leap moderately high into the air.

Now, there are numerous flea species and they infest household pets and domestic animals. The dog flea and the cat flea are two of the most common species, both of which are parasites; sometimes they are on human beings, poultry, and livestock in the absence of their natural host. The human flea, the species commonly found on people, is distributed throughout the world. The dog flea, cat flea, and human flea are all intermediate hosts of a common cat and dog parasite, the cucumber tapeworm (Dipylidium caninum). Tapeworm eggs are deposited in faecal matter, and some of these eggs may clutch to the fur of the primary host. Flea larvae swallow the tapeworm eggs. The worm larva remains within the flea during all its life stages, but becomes infective only in the adult flea. An animal or human being becomes infected when it swallows an infected flea, as, for example, when an animal licks its fur. The adult tapeworm then begins to develop inside the host animal. Human cases are rare and accidental. The rat fleas, in the tropics and in Europe, are important carriers of bubonic plague, as is the sticktight flea, which is also noted for its habit of clinging tenaciously to its host. Dog eczema is usually connected with the presence of fleas.

To control fleas, you have to target the adult and the larva, in summary you have to destroy the adults and making breeding places unsuitable for larval life. Adult fleas are destroyed by judicious application of insecticides or petroleum jelly. These agents must be properly used to avoid harm to the infected animal or person.

Professional Flea and Tick Control